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Ocean wave climate has a significant impact on near-shore and off-shore human activities, and its characterisation can help in the design of ocean structures such as wave energy converters and sea dikes. Therefore, engineers need long time…

Machine Learning · Statistics 2022-05-27 Said Obakrim , Valérie Monbet , Nicolas Raillard , Pierre Ailliot

Accurate wave height prediction is critical for maritime safety and coastal resilience, yet conventional physics-based models and traditional machine learning methods face challenges in computational efficiency and nonlinear dynamics…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2025-09-03 Yilin Zhai , Hongyuan Shi , Chao Zhan , Qing Wang , Zaijin You , Nan Wang

Sea surface height (SSH) is a key geophysical parameter for monitoring and studying meso-scale surface ocean dynamics. For several decades, the mapping of SSH products at regional and global scales has relied on nadir satellite altimeters,…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2023-02-15 Quentin Febvre , Clément Ubelmann , Julien Le Sommer , Ronan Fablet

The accurate prediction of oceanographic variables is crucial for understanding climate change, managing marine resources, and optimizing maritime activities. Traditional ocean forecasting relies on numerical models; however, these…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2025-10-30 Víctor Medina , Giovanny A. Cuervo-Londoño , Javier Sánchez

Significant wave height is one of the most important parameters characterizing ocean waves, and accurate numerical ocean wave forecasting is crucial for coastal protection and shipping. However, due to the randomness and nonlinearity of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-12-01 Wei Zhang , Yu Sun , Yapeng Wu , Junyu Dong , Xiaojiang Song , Zhiyi Gao , Renbo Pang , Boyu Guoan

Recent research has focused on enhancing the capability of smaller models through imitation learning, drawing on the outputs generated by large foundation models (LFMs). A number of issues impact the quality of these models, ranging from…

Computation and Language · Computer Science 2023-06-06 Subhabrata Mukherjee , Arindam Mitra , Ganesh Jawahar , Sahaj Agarwal , Hamid Palangi , Ahmed Awadallah

Machine learning is a promising technique for angle-of-arrival (AOA) estimation of waves impinging a sensor array. However, the majority of the methods proposed so far only consider a known, fixed number of impinging waves, i.e., a fixed…

Signal Processing · Electrical Eng. & Systems 2021-11-19 Noud Kanters , Andrés Alayón Glazunov

Satellite-based remote sensing missions have revolutionized our understanding of the Ocean state and dynamics. Among them, space-borne altimetry provides valuable Sea Surface Height (SSH) measurements, used to estimate surface geostrophic…

Machine Learning · Computer Science 2024-05-07 Theo Archambault , Arthur Filoche , Anastase Charantonis , Dominique Bereziat , Sylvie Thiria

Traditional significant wave height (SWH) estima- tion from HF radar typically relies on spectral analysis of the received radar signals. This process was previously simplified by establishing a linear relationship between SWH and the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-03-19 Senal Chandrasekara , Reza Shahidi

Oceanic processes at fine scales are crucial yet difficult to observe accurately due to limitations in satellite and in-situ measurements. The Surface Water and Ocean Topography (SWOT) mission provides high-resolution Sea Surface Height…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-03-28 Eugenio Cutolo , Carlos Granero-Belinchon , Ptashanna Thiraux , Jinbo Wang , Ronan Fablet

Stochastic wind sea is an intermediate small-scale physical process responsible for the state of the atmospheric boundary layer and the water upper layer, having dynamics of all scales. To describe behavior of this system, one could use the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-09-13 Vladislav Polnikov

In adaptive optics, the measurement of spatial coherence length helps in deciding the optimum design parameters of a Shack Hartmann Sensor (SHS). Two methods of estimating the spatial coherence length of optical wavefronts are presented.…

Instrumentation and Methods for Astrophysics · Physics 2009-11-08 Akondi Vyas , M. B. Roopashree , B. Raghavendra Prasad

Orcinus orca (killer whales) exhibit complex calls. They last about a second. In a call, an orca typically uses multiple frequencies simultaneously, varies the frequencies, and varies their volumes. Behavior data is hard to obtain because…

Sound · Computer Science 2023-02-23 Sophia Sandholm

We present a framework for forecasting significant wave height on the Southwestern Atlantic Ocean using the long short-term memory algorithm (LSTM), trained with the ERA5 database available through Copernicus Climate Data Store (CDS)…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2022-12-28 Felipe C. Minuzzi , Leandro Farina

Ocean forecasting is crucial for both scientific research and societal benefits. Currently, the most accurate forecasting systems are global ocean forecasting systems (GOFSs), which represent the ocean state variables (OSVs) as discrete…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-04-01 Nan Yang , Chong Wang , Meihua Zhao , Zimeng Zhao , Huiling Zheng , Bin Zhang , Jianing Wang , Xiaofeng Li

This paper presents a method for estimating significant wave height (Hs) from sparse S_pectral P_oint using a T_ransformer-based approach (SPT). Based on empirical observations that only a minority of spectral points with strong power…

Signal Processing · Electrical Eng. & Systems 2026-01-09 Yi Zhou , Li Wang , Hang Su , Tian Wang

This paper proposes a machine learning method based on the Extra Trees (ET) algorithm for forecasting Significant Wave Heights in oceanic waters. To derive multiple features from the CDIP buoys, which make point measurements, we first…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2021-07-15 Pujan Pokhrel

We report the outcome of evaluations of the skill of long-range forecasts from the ocean wave model component of the Navy's global coupled modeling system. Specifically, the model output is taken from a single member of the ensemble system,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-10-10 W. E. Rogers , M. A. Janiga

The ocean profoundly influences human activities and plays a critical role in climate regulation. Our understanding has improved over the last decades with the advent of satellite remote sensing data, allowing us to capture essential…

Knowledge of ocean circulation is important for understanding and predicting weather and climate, and managing the blue economy. This circulation can be estimated through Sea Surface Height (SSH) observations, but requires decomposing the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2024-09-27 Jingwen Lyu , Yue Wang , Christian Pedersen , Spencer Jones , Dhruv Balwada
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