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Inhomogeneities in the wave field due to wave groups, currents, and shoaling among other ocean processes can affect the mean water level. In this work, the classical and unsolved problem of continuously computing the set-down and the…
We study the development of mean structures in a nonlinear model of large scale ocean dynamics with bottom topography and dissipation, and forced with a noise term. We show that the presence of noise in this nonlinear model leads to…
Recent studies have shown that, in coastal waters where water depth decreases significantly due to rapid bathymetric changes, the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) substantially increases the occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves.…
Global observations of ocean swell, from satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar data, are used to estimate the dissipation of swell energy for a number of storms. Swells can be very persistent with energy e-folding scales exceeding 20,000 km.…
The results of the probabilistic analysis of the direct numerical simulations of irregular unidirectional deep-water waves are discussed. It is shown that an occurrence of large-amplitude soliton-like groups represents an extraordinary…
Real world water waves often propagate on current. And, the measurement of waves and current is an important task for coastal and marine engineers. Modern marine measurement technologies (i.e. unmanned autonomous vehicles, drones) often…
We analyze the linear stability of monoclinal traveling waves on a constant incline, which connect uniform flowing regions of differing depths. The classical shallow-water equations are employed, subject to a general resistive drag term.…
We investigate a hydrodynamic equation system which - with some approximation - is capable to describe the tsunami propagation in the open ocean with the time-dependent self-similar Ansatz. We found analytic solutions how the wave height…
Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not…
Body tides reveal information about planetary interiors and affect their evolution. Most models to compute body tides rely on the assumption of a spherically-symmetric interior. However, several processes can lead to lateral variations of…
Wall-bounded turbulent shear flows are known to exhibit universal small-scale dynamics that are modulated by large-scale flow structures. Strong pressure gradients complicate this characterization, however; they can cause significant…
A new description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak 3D effects are included as small corrections to exact 2D equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter…
We study modulational stability and instability in the Whitham equation, combining the dispersion relation of water waves and a nonlinearity of the shallow water equations, and modified to permit the effects of surface tension and constant…
We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…
We study the flow of water waves over bathymetry that varies periodically along one direction. We derive a linearized, homogenized model and show that the periodic bathymetry induces an effective dispersion, distinct from the dispersion…
Scattering of random surface gravity waves by small amplitude topography in the presence of a uniform current is investigated theoretically. This problem is relevant to ocean waves propagation on shallow continental shelves where tidal…
The dispersive motion of surface waves is now routinely used to remotely measure the currents close beneath the surface of oceans and other natural flows. The current manifests as wavelength-dependent Doppler shifts in the spatiotemporal…
Formation of turbulence of capillary waves is studied in laboratory experiments. The spectra show multiple exponentially decreasing harmonics of the parametrically excited wave which nonlinearly broaden with the increase in forcing.…
Measuring the directional distribution of ocean waves is a difficult task in ocean wave research. For many decades, wind-generated waves are assumed to propagate primarily in the wind direction. The concept is applied either implicitly or…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…