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We consider a two-dimensional, incompressible, inviscid fluid with variable density, subject to the action of gravity. Assuming a stable equilibrium density profile, we adopt the so-called Boussinesq approximation, which neglects density…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-07-15 R. Bianchini , A. Maspero , S. Pasquali

We derive transport equations for the propagation of water wave action in the presence of a static, spatially random surface drift. Using the Wigner distribution $\W(\x,\k,t)$ to represent the envelope of the wave amplitude at position $\x$…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2007-05-23 Guillaume Bal , Tom Chou

Previous results on the scattering of surface waves by vertical vorticity on shallow water are generalized to the case of dispersive water waves. Dispersion effects are treated perturbatively around the shallow water limit, to first order…

Quantum Physics · Physics 2016-08-15 Christophe Coste , Fernando Lund

The aim of this paper is to present a survey and a detailed numerical study on a remarkable Boussinesq system describing weakly nonlinear, long surface water waves. In the one-dimensional case, this system can be viewed as a dispersive…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-03-20 C. Klein , J. -C. Saut

We apply spectral stability theory to investigate nonlinear gravity waves in the atmosphere. These waves are determined by modulation equations that result from Wentzel-Kramers-Brillouin theory. First, we establish that plane waves, which…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-05-25 Mark Schlutow , Erik Wahlén , Philipp Birken

We investigate here the interactions of waves governed by a Boussinesq system with a partially immersed body allowed to move freely in the vertical direction. We show that the whole system of equations can be reduced to a transmission…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-02-16 Geoffrey Beck , David Lannes

This paper is devoted to the derivation and mathematical analysis of a wave-structure interaction problem which can be reduced to a transmission problem for a Boussinesq system. Initial boundary value problems and transmission problems in…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-07-14 D. Bresch , David Lannes , Guy Metivier

This work analyzes the forward and inverse scattering series for scalar waves based on the Helmholtz equation and the diffuse waves from the time-independent diffusion equation, which are important PDEs in various applications. Different…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-04-19 Srinath Mahankali , Yunan Yang

A reduced dynamical model is derived which describes the interaction of weak inertia-gravity waves with nonlinear vortical motion in the context of rotating shallow-water flow. The formal scaling assumptions are (i) that there is a…

chao-dyn · Physics 2009-10-28 Caroline Nore , Theodore G. Shepherd

The topographical scattering of gravity waves is investigated using a spectral energy balance equation that accounts for first order wave-bottom Bragg scattering. This model represents the bottom topography and surface waves with spectra,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 Rudy Magne , Fabrice Ardhuin , Vincent Rey , Thomas H. C. Herbers

In this paper, we study the motion of the free surface of a body of fluid over a variable bottom, in a long wave asymptotic regime. We assume that the bottom of the fluid region can be described by a stationary random process $\beta(x,…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-11-13 Anne de Bouard , Walter Craig , Oliver Díaz-Espinosa , Philippe Guyenne , Catherine Sulem

We study the propagation of sound waves in a three-dimensional, infinite ambient flow with weak random fluctuations of the mean particle velocity and speed of sound. We more particularly address the regime where the acoustic wavelengths are…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2021-09-03 Jean-Luc Akian , Éric Savin

We study the waves at the interface between two thin horizontal layers of immiscible liquids subject to high-frequency tangential vibrations. Nonlinear governing equations are derived for the cases of two- and three-dimensional flows and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-10-30 Anastasiya V. Dolmatova , Denis S. Goldobin , Tatyana P. Lyubimova

Phenomenological and numerical studies of the small scale spectra of energy are presented for high Reynolds number rotating Boussinesq flows in unit aspect-ratio domains. We introduce a non-dimensional parameter Gamma such that when the…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2010-07-14 Susan Kurien

In the paper, we discuss the studies of mathematical models of diffusion scattering of waves in the phase space, and relation of these models with quantum mechanics. In the previous works it is shown that in these models of classical…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2016-03-22 E. M. Beniaminov

Numerical simulations of large scale geophysical flows typically require unphysically strong dissipation for numerical stability. Towards energetic balance various schemes have been devised to re-inject this energy, in particular by…

Dynamical Systems · Mathematics 2024-02-06 Paul Holst , Jens D. M. Rademacher , Jichen Yang

When a surface wave interacts with a vertical vortex in shallow water the latter induces a dislocation in the incident wavefronts that is analogous to what happens in the Aharonov-Bohm effect for the scattering of electrons by a confined…

Quantum Physics · Physics 2016-08-15 Christophe Coste , Makoto Umeki , Fernando Lund

We study the diffusion of ocean waves by ice bodies much smaller than a wavelength, such as pancakes and small ice floes. We argue that inhomogeneities in the ice cover at scales comparable to that of the wavelength significantly increase…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-04-05 Piero Olla , Giacomo De Carolis , Francesca De Santi

Currents modulate the energy of surface gravity waves, leading to spatial inhomogeneities in significant wave height (SWH). Previous work indicates that the overall scale of the inhomogeneities is set by the scale of the currents, that the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-11-05 Han Wang , Ana B. Villas Bôas , Jacques Vanneste , William R. Young

The rotating shallow water equations with f-plane approximation and nonlinear bottom drag are a prototypical model for mid-latitude geophysical flow that experience energy loss through simple topography. Motivated by numerical schemes for…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-09-18 Artur Prugger , Jens D. M. Rademacher , Jichen Yang