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The floating structure problem describes the interaction between surface water waves and a floating body, generally a boat or a wave energy converter. As shown by Lannes in [18] the equations for the fluid motion can be reduced to a set of…
Consider the dynamics of turbulent flow in rivers, estuaries and floods. Based on the widely used k-epsilon model for turbulence, we use the techniques of centre manifold theory to derive dynamical models for the evolution of the water…
Formally second-order correct, mathematical descriptions of long-crested water waves propagating mainly in one direction are derived. These equations are analogous to the first-order approximations of KdV- or BBM-type. The advantage of…
The practically important problem of the wave run-up is studied in this article in the framework of Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (NSWE). The main novelty consists in the usage of high order local asymptotic analytical solutions in the…
In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…
In this study we investigate shallow turbidity density currents and underflows from mechanical point of view. We propose a simple hyperbolic model for such flows. On one hand, our model is based on very basic conservation principles. On the…
Long waves in shallow water propagating over a background shear flow towards a sloping beach are being investigated. The classical shallow-water equations are extended to incorporate both a background shear flow and a linear beach profile,…
General scenario of turbulence theory is proposed and applied to streaky wall-bounded turbulence. This scenario introduces a new field of transverse waves. Significance of the theory rests on a mathematical theorem associated with the…
Coastal erosion is a major and growing environmental problem describing the movement of sand caused by tides, waves or currents. Several phenomena contribute to the significant advance of the sea. These include climate change, with rising…
A theoretical analysis is presented for turbulent flows, applicable for canonical (channel, boundary-layer and free jet) geometries. Momentum and energy balance for a control volume moving at the local mean velocity decouples the…
The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…
The impact of turbulent fluctuations on the forces exerted by a fluid on a towed spherical particle is investigated by means of high-resolution direct numerical simulations. The measurements are carried out using a novel scheme to integrate…
This paper presents a novel methodology for the direct numerical modeling and simulation of turbulent flows. The kinetic model equation is firstly extended to turbulent flow with the account of coupled evolution of kinetic, thermal, and…
Long waves in rivers, estuaries and floods are described by the St Venant and Boussinesq equations in classical fluid dynamics. Based on the widely used $k$-$\epsilon$ model for turbulence, we use the techniques of centre manifold theory to…
A model for the wave motion of an internal wave in the presence of current in the case of intermediate long wave approximation is studied. The lower layer is considerably deeper, with a higher density than the upper layer. The flat surface…
In this paper we present an experimental study of the long surface wave instability that can develop when a granular material flows down a rough inclined plane. The threshold and the dispersion relation of the instability are precisely…
In the study of ocean wave impact on structures, one often uses Froude scaling since the dominant force is gravity. However the presence of trapped or entrained air in the water can significantly modify wave impacts. When air is entrained…
A theory is presented for wave-driven propulsion of floating bodies driven into oscillation at the fluid interface. By coupling the equations of motion of the body to a quasi-potential flow model of the fluid, we derive expressions for the…
A plane turbulent mixing in a shear flow of an ideal homogeneous fluid confined between two relatively close rigid walls is considered. The character of the flow is determined by interaction of vortices arising at the nonlinear stage of the…
We present the effective theory of fluids at next-to-leading order in derivatives, including an operator that has not been considered until now. The power-counting scheme and its connection with the propagation of phonon and metric…