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Currents modulate the energy of surface gravity waves, leading to spatial inhomogeneities in significant wave height (SWH). Previous work indicates that the overall scale of the inhomogeneities is set by the scale of the currents, that the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-11-05 Han Wang , Ana B. Villas Bôas , Jacques Vanneste , William R. Young

Scattering of random surface gravity waves by small amplitude topography in the presence of a uniform current is investigated theoretically. This problem is relevant to ocean waves propagation on shallow continental shelves where tidal…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 Rudy Magne , Fabrice Ardhuin

The refraction of surface gravity waves by currents leads to spatial modulations in the wave field and, in particular, in the significant wave height. We examine this phenomenon in the case of waves scattered by a localised current feature,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-11-13 Han Wang , Ana B. Villas Bôas , William R. Young , Jacques Vanneste

The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-07-20 Eric Danioux , Jacques Vanneste

Upper-ocean flows are a multi-scale jigsaw puzzle of turbulence and waves. Characterizing these flows is essential for understanding their role in redistributing heat, carbon, and nutrients, yet power spectral analysis cannot always…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-05-05 J. W. Skinner , A. Lawrence , J. Callies

This paper presents a comprehensive description of the relative effect of optical underwater turbulence in combination with absorption and scattering. Turbulence induced scattering is shown to cause and increase both spatial and temporal…

Signal Processing · Electrical Eng. & Systems 2021-01-15 Callum T. Geldard , John Thompson , Wasiu O. Popoola

Currents can affect the evolution of waves in nearshore regions through altering their wavenumber and amplitude. Including the effect of ambient currents (e.g., tidal and wind-driven) on waves in phase-resolving wave models is not…

Using recordings of swell from pitch-and-roll buoys, we have reproduced the classic observations of long-range surface wave propagation originally made by Munk et al. (1963) using a triangular array of bottom pressure measurements. In the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-10-08 Basile Gallet , William R. Young

Spatial maps of the high-pass frequency filtered time-averaged root-mean-squared (RMS) Doppler velocities tend to show substantial decrements within regions of strong field and curiously, randomly distributed patches of enhancement in the…

Solar and Stellar Astrophysics · Physics 2015-05-13 Shravan M. Hanasoge

Effects of spatially varying interfacial parameters on the propagation of surface waves are studied. These variations can arise from inhomogeneities in coverage of surface active substances such as amphiphillic molecules at the fluid/gas…

Condensed Matter · Physics 2009-10-22 T. Chou , David R. Nelson

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

In current scientific and technological scenario, studies of transmittance of surface waves across structured interfaces have gained some wind amidst applications to metasurfaces, electronic edge-waves, crystal grain boundaries, etc. The…

Classical Physics · Physics 2023-09-18 Basant Lal Sharma

We report experimental observations of two canonical surface wave patterns --- ship waves and ring waves --- skewed by sub-surface shear, thus confirming effects predicted by recent theory. Observed ring waves on a still surface with…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-08-12 Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Eirik Æsøy , Simen Å. Ellingsen

Modeling ocean surface waves under complex ocean current conditions is of crucial importance to many naval applications. For example, traveling ships and underwater vehicles generate spatially heterogeneous currents behind them through…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-15 Tianyi Li , Anqing Xuan , Lian Shen

We analytically study a scattering of long linear surface waves on stationary currents in a duct (canal) of constant depth and variable width. It is assumed that the background velocity linearly increases or decreases with the longitudinal…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-20 Semyon Churilov , Andrei Ermakov , Yury Stepanyants

The currents in the ocean have a serious impact on ocean dynamics, since they affect the transport of mass and thus the distribution of salinity, nutrients and pollutants. In many physically important situations the current depends…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-10-22 Conor Curtin , Rossen Ivanov

The interaction of surface waves with Couette-type current with uniform vorticity is a well suited problem for students approaching the theory of surface waves. The problem, although mathematically simple, contains rich physics, and is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-02-26 Simen Å Ellingsen , Iver Brevik

Refraction is the predominant mechanism causing spatially inhomogeneous surface gravity wave fields. However, the complex interplay between depth- and current-induced wave refraction remains poorly understood. Assuming weak currents and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-09-17 Trygve Halsne , Yan Li

A simple analytical model is developed for the current induced by the wind and modified by surface wind-waves in the oceanic surface layer, based on a first-order turbulence closure and including the effect of a vortex force representing…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-12-05 Miguel A. C. Teixeira

Across the stable density stratification of the abyssal ocean, deep dense water is slowly propelled upward by sustained, though irregular, turbulent mixing. The resulting mean upwelling determines large-scale oceanic circulation properties…

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