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Here, we show through a statistical analysis that rogue waves in broadband non-breaking seas are spatially asymmetric. In addition to the top-down asymmetry due to nonlinear effects, we show that the two troughs adjacent to the rogue wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-25 Qiuchen Guo , Louis-Alexandre Couston , Mohammad-Reza Alam

The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of random sea waves at moderately small Benjamin-Feir indices and its comparison with the linear dynamics (at the coincidence of spatial Fourier harmonics near a spectral peak at a certain…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-05 V. P. Ruban

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-06-11 Saulo Mendes , Ina Teutsch , Jérôme Kasparian

The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of the sea surface has shown that the collision of two groups of relatively low waves with close but noncollinear wave vectors (two or three waves in each group with a steepness of about…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-02-12 V. P. Ruban

Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-07-30 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ivan Veselić , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-07 Saulo Mendes , Yuchen He , Jérôme Kasparian , Amin Chabchoub

A specific, genuinely three-dimensional mechanism of rogue wave formation, in a late stage of the modulational instability of a perturbed Stokes deep-water wave, is recognized through numerical experiments. The simulations are based on…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2007-08-01 V. P. Ruban

We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2012-07-11 L. H. Ying , Z. Zhuang , E. J. Heller , L. Kaplan

Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban

Extreme or rogue waves are large and unexpected waves appearing with higher probability than predicted by Gaussian statistics. Although their formation is explained by both linear and nonlinear wave propagation, nonlinearity has been…

Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-01-30 C. Tyler Bolles , Kevin Speer , M. N. J. Moore

Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-07-19 Saulo Mendes , Jérôme Kasparian

Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban

Rogue waves are extreme and rare fluctuations of the wave field that have been discussed in many physical systems. Their presence substantially influences the statistical properties of an incoherent wave field. Their understanding is…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2018-01-24 Rebecca El Koussaifi , Alexey Tikan , Alessandro Toffoli , Stephane Randoux , Pierre Suret , Miguel Onorato

We investigate how the presence of a vertically sheared current affects wave statistics, including the probability of rogue waves, and apply it to a real-world case using measured spectral and shear current data from the Mouth of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-01-18 Zibo Zheng , Yan Li , Simen Å Ellingsen

In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-30 Alexey Slunyaev , Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky

We investigate the statistics of rogue waves occurring in the inverse cascade of surface gravity wave turbulence. In such statistically homogeneous, stationary and isotropic wave fields, low-frequency waves are generated by nonlinear…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-06-15 Guillaume Michel , Félicien Bonnefoy , Guillaume Ducrozet , Eric Falcon

The issue of rogue wave lifetimes is addressed in this study, which helps to detail the general picture of this dangerous oceanic phenomenon. The direct numerical simulations of irregular wave ensembles are performed to obtain the complete…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-03-26 Anna Kokorina , Alexey Slunyaev

In this paper, we present a novel approach for the prediction of rogue waves in oceans using statistical machine learning methods. Since the ocean is composed of many wave systems, the change from a bimodal or multimodal directional…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-03-17 Pujan Pokhrel , Elias Ioup , Md Tamjidul Hoque , Julian Simeonov , Mahdi Abdelguerfi
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