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Unforced shoaling waves experience growth and changes to wave shape. Similarly, wind-forced waves on a flat-bottom likewise experience growth/decay and changes to wave shape. However, the combined effect of shoaling and wind-forcing on wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-07-15 Thomas Zdyrski , Falk Feddersen

We consider linear instability of solitary waves of several classes of dispersive long wave models. They include generalizations of KDV, BBM, regularized Boussinesq equations, with general dispersive operators and nonlinear terms. We obtain…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2008-02-04 Zhiwu Lin

This thesis is concerned with dynamics of conservative nonlinear waves on bounded domains. In general, there are two scenarios of evolution. Either the solution behaves in an oscillatory, quasiperiodic manner or the nonlinear effects cause…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2016-03-04 Maciej Maliborski

Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-07 Saulo Mendes , Yuchen He , Jérôme Kasparian , Amin Chabchoub

We examine the general question of statistical changes experienced by ensembles of nonlinear random waves propagating in systems ruled by integrable equations. In our study that enters within the framework of integrable turbulence, we…

Optics · Physics 2016-08-24 S. Randoux , P. Walczak , M. Onorato , P. Suret

Using simple kinematics, we propose a general theory of linear wave interactions between the interfacial waves of a two dimensional (2D), inviscid, multi-layered fluid system. The strength of our formalism is that one does not have to…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-04-05 Anirban Guha , Firdaus E. Udwadia

In a recent paper it was proposed that for some nonlinear shell models of turbulence one can construct a linear advection model for an auxiliary field such that the scaling exponents of all the structure functions of the linear and…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Roberto Benzi , Boris Levant , Itamar Procaccia , Edriss S. Titi

General equations describing shear displacements in incompressible hyperelastic materials, holding for an arbitrary form of strain energy density function, are presented and applied to the description of nonlinear Love-type waves…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2026-03-20 Shawn Samuel Carl McAdam , Samuel Opoku Agyemang , Alexei Cheviakov

We analyze mechanisms and regimes of wave packet spreading in nonlinear disordered media. We predict that wave packets can spread in two regimes of strong and weak chaos. We discuss resonance probabilities, nonlinear diffusion equations,…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2015-05-18 S. Flach

We study the flow of water waves over bathymetry that varies periodically along one direction. We derive a linearized, homogenized model and show that the periodic bathymetry induces an effective dispersion, distinct from the dispersion…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-07-01 Manuel Quezada de Luna , David I. Ketcheson

The formulation of a canonical deep-water breaking wave problem is introduced, and the results of a set of three-dimensional numerical simulations for deep-water breaking waves are presented. In this paper fully nonlinear progressive waves…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-10-08 Kyle A. Brucker , Thomas T. O'Shea , Douglas G. Dommermuth , Paul Adams

Layered media can be used as acoustic filters, allowing only waves of certain frequencies to propagate. In soft magneto-active laminates, the shear wave band gaps (i.e., the frequency intervals for which shear waves cannot propagate) can be…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2025-08-22 Harold Berjamin , Stephan Rudykh

Two-dimensional potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface are considered in situations when shape of the bottom depends on time due to external reasons. Exact nonlinear equations describing surface waves in terms of the so…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-10 V. P. Ruban

The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-03-30 Tomas Torsvik , Ahmed Abdalazeez , Denys Dutykh , Petr Denissenko , Ira Didenkulova

This article is devoted to the proof of the well-posedness of a model describing waves propagating in shallow water in horizontal dimension $d=2$ and in the presence of a fixed partially immersed object. We first show that this…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-06-28 David Lannes , Tatsuo Iguchi

Distributions of wave characteristics of ocean waves, such as wave slope, waveheight or wavelength, are an important tool in a variety of oceanographic applications such as safety of ocean structures or in the study of ship stability, as…

Probability · Mathematics 2008-12-18 Sofia Aberg , Igor Rychlik , M. Ross Leadbetter

From among the waves whose dynamics are governed by the nonlinear Schr\"odinger (NLS) equation, we find a robust, spatiotemporally disordered family, in which waves initialized with increasing amplitudes, on average, over long time scales,…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2021-07-05 Katelyn Plaisier Leisman , Douglas Zhou , J. W. Banks , Gregor Kovačič , David Cai

To describe the strongly nonlinear dynamics of waves propagating in the final stages of shoaling and in the surf and swash zones, fully nonlinear models are required. The ability of the Serre or Green Naghdi (S-GN) equations to reproduce…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-04-21 P. Bonneton , E. Barthelemy , J. D. Carter , F. Chazel , R. Cienfuegos , D. Lannes , F. Marche , M. Tissier

Elastic scattering governed by the Lame system associated with the third-type or fourth-type boundary condition is considered. It was shown in [8] by two of the authors that under suitable geometric conditions on the boundary surface of the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2019-05-16 Junjiang Lai , Hongyu Liu , Jingni Xiao , Yifeng Xu

Recent studies have shown some unusual nonlinear dispersion behaviors that are disconnected from the linear regime. However, existing analytical techniques, such as perturbation methods, fail to correctly capture these behaviors. Here we…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2025-07-02 Weijian Jiao