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Prediction is a central goal and a yet-unresolved challenge in the investigation of oceanic rogue waves. Here we define a horizon of predictability for oceanic rogue waves and derive, via extensive computational experiments, the first…
This study aims to improve the spatial representation of uncertainties when regressing surface wind speeds from large-scale atmospheric predictors for sub-seasonal forecasting. Sub-seasonal forecasting often relies on large-scale…
The work highlights the importance of directional spreading effects on wave overtopping estimation in shallow and mild sloping foreshores. Wave short-crestedness leads, in general, to a reduction of mean overtopping discharges on coastal…
We propose spectral methods for long-term forecasting of temporal signals stemming from linear and nonlinear quasi-periodic dynamical systems. For linear signals, we introduce an algorithm with similarities to the Fourier transform but…
The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of random sea waves at moderately small Benjamin-Feir indices and its comparison with the linear dynamics (at the coincidence of spatial Fourier harmonics near a spectral peak at a certain…
Dispersion curves characterize the frequency dependence of the phase and the group velocities of propagating elastic waves. Many analytical and numerical techniques produce dispersion curves from physics-based models. However, it is often…
The rigorous analytical calculation of the diffusion coefficient is performed for the chaotic motion of a particle in a set of longitudinal waves with random phases and large amplitudes (~ A). A first step proves the existence of a…
Accurate ocean forecasting systems are vital for understanding marine dynamics, which play a crucial role in environmental management and climate adaptation strategies. Traditional numerical solvers, while effective, are computationally…
The computation of long wave propagation through the ocean obviously depends on the initial condition. When the waves are generated by a moving bottom, a traditional approach consists in translating the ``frozen'' sea bed deformation to the…
We consider the modulational instability of nonlinearly interacting two-dimensional waves in deep water, which are described by a pair of two-dimensional coupled nonlinear Schroedinger equations. We derive a nonlinear dispersion relation.…
Conventional time-series forecasting methods typically aim to minimize overall prediction error, without accounting for the varying importance of different forecast ranges in downstream applications. We propose a training methodology that…
We consider the problem of forecasting complex, nonlinear space-time processes when observations provide only partial information of on the system's state. We propose a natural data-driven framework, where the system's dynamics are modelled…
Modern day studies of wind-driven sea waves are usually focused on wind forcing rather than on the effect of resonant nonlinear wave interactions. The authors assume that these effects are dominating and propose a simple relationship…
In this work, we study the nonlinear traveling waves in density stratified fluids with depth varying shear currents. Beginning the formulation of the water-wave problem due to [1], we extend the work of [4] and [18] to examine the interface…
Measuring the directional distribution of ocean waves is a difficult task in ocean wave research. For many decades, wind-generated waves are assumed to propagate primarily in the wind direction. The concept is applied either implicitly or…
It is the aim of the paper to present a new point of view on rotational elasticity in a nonlinear setting using orthogonal matrices. The proposed model, in the linear approximation, can be compared to the well known equilibrium equations of…
The dispersion surfaces of printed periodic structures in layered media are efficiently computed using a full-wave method based on the periodic Method of Moments (MoM). The geometry of the dispersion surface is estimated after mapping the…
Linear regression is a fundamental and popular statistical method. There are various kinds of linear regression, such as mean regression and quantile regression. In this paper, we propose a new one called distribution regression, which…
The nonlinear dynamics of an obliquely oriented wave packet at sea surface is studied both analytically and numerically for various initial parameters of the packet, in connection with the problem of oceanic rogue waves. In the framework of…
Wave turbulence in a thin elastic plate is experimentally investigated. By using a Fourier transform profilometry technique, the deformation field of the plate surface is measured simultaneously in time and space. This enables us to compute…