Related papers: Wave breaking for the Kakutani-Matsuuchi model
A single incompressible, inviscid, irrotational fluid medium bounded by a free surface and varying bottom is considered. The Hamiltonian of the system is expressed in terms of the so-called Dirichlet-Neumann operators. The equations for the…
By performing two parallel numerical experiments -- solving the dynamical Hamiltonian equations and solving the Hasselmann kinetic equation -- we examined the applicability of the theory of weak turbulence to the description of the time…
In the present study, we propose a modified version of the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (Saint-Venant or NSWE) for irrotational surface waves in the case when the bottom undergoes some significant variations in space and time. The…
We present numerical evidence for the spontaneous breaking of the centre symmetry of four-dimensional twisted Eguchi-Kawai models with SU(N) gauge group and symmetric twist, for sufficiently large N. We find that for N greater or equal than…
We propose a general theory on the standing waves (quasiparticle interference pattern) caused by the scattering of surface states off step edges in topological insulators, in which the extremal points on the constant energy contour of…
This paper presents a novel method for obtaining the probability wave of breaking ($P_b$) of deep water, dominant wind-sea waves (that is, waves made of the energy within $\pm$30\% of the peak wave frequency) derived from Gaussian wave…
A phenomenological model of parametric surface waves (Faraday waves) is introduced in the limit of small viscous dissipation that accounts for the coupling between surface motion and slowly varying streaming and large scale flows (mean…
In this paper we construct periodic capillarity-gravity water waves with an arbitrary bounded vorticity distribution. This is achieved by reexpressing, in the height function formulation of the water wave problem, the boundary condition…
The purpose of this article is to clarify the Cauchy theory of the water waves equations as well in terms of regularity indexes for the initial conditions as for the smoothness of the bottom of the domain (namely no regularity assumption is…
Deep-water surface wave breaking affects the transfer of mass, momentum, energy and heat between the air and sea. Understanding when and how the onset of wave breaking will occur remains a challenge. The mechanisms that form steep waves,…
We investigate a hydrodynamic equation system which - with some approximation - is capable to describe the tsunami propagation in the open ocean with the time-dependent self-similar Ansatz. We found analytic solutions how the wave height…
In this article, we study the local existence of solutions for a wave equation with a nonlocal in time nonlinearity. Moreover, a blow-up results are proved under some conditions on the dimensional space, the initial data and the nonlinear…
This paper is concerned with the energy decay and the finite time blow-up of the solution to a viscoelastic wave equation with polynomial nonlinearity and weak damping. We establish explicit and general decay results for the solutions by…
We prove the local existence for the Water Waves equations with large bathymetric variations on a time interval of size 1/\epsilon, where $\epsilon$ measures the amplitude of the wave. We just need the presence of surface tension.
We report laboratory experiments on surface waves generated in a uniform fluid layer whose bottom undergoes a sudden upward motion. Simultaneous measurements of the free-surface deformation and the fluid velocity field are focused on the…
Elastic scattering governed by the Lame system associated with the third-type or fourth-type boundary condition is considered. It was shown in [8] by two of the authors that under suitable geometric conditions on the boundary surface of the…
The statistics of breaking wave fields is characterised within a novel multi-layer framework, which generalises the single-layer Saint-Venant system into a multi-layer and non-hydrostatic formulation of the Navier-Stokes equations. We…
We formulate a depth-averaged non-hydrostatic model to solve wave equations with generation by a moving bottom. This model is built upon the shallow water equations, which are widely used in tsunami wave modelling. An extension leads to two…
We study traveling wave solutions of an equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude arising as a shallow water approximation of the Euler equations for inviscid, incompressible and homogenous fluids. We obtain solitary waves of…
In this paper, we investigate the well-posedness of a nonlinear dispersive model with variable coefficients that describes the evolution of surface waves propagating through a one-dimensional shallow water channel of finite length with…