Related papers: Wave breaking for the Kakutani-Matsuuchi model
The model we deal with is the mathematical model for mutually penetrating continua one of which is the carrying medium obeying the wave equation whereas the other one is the oscillating inclusion described by the equation for oscillators.…
The object of this study is to investigate the effect of viscosity on propagation of free-surface waves in an incompressible viscous fluid layer of arbitrary depth. While we provide a more detailed study of properties of linear surface…
The Whitham equation was proposed as an alternate model equation for the simplified description of uni-directional wave motion at the surface of an inviscid fluid. As the Whitham equation incorporates the full linear dispersion relation of…
We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…
Nonlinear water waves interacting with quasi-one-dimensional, non-uniformly periodic bed profiles are studied numerically in the deep-water regime with the help of approximate equations for envelopes of the forward and backward waves.…
The Ostrovsky--Hunter equation governs evolution of shallow water waves on a rotating fluid in the limit of small high-frequency dispersion. Sufficient conditions for the wave breaking in the Ostrovsky--Hunter equation are found both on an…
Using the same measurement techniques as those of Saket et al. (2017), we have investigated the breaking threshold proposed by Barthelemy et al. (arXiv:1508.06002v1, 2015b) but for different classes of unforced unidirectional wave groups in…
We show that wave breaking occurs with positive probability for the Stochastic Camassa-Holm (SCH) equation. This means that temporal stochasticity in the diffeomorphic flow map for SCH does not prevent the wave breaking process which leads…
We consider the Isobe-Kakinuma model for water waves in both cases of the flat and the variable bottoms. The Isobe-Kakinuma model is a system of Euler-Lagrange equations for an approximate Lagrangian which is derived from Luke's Lagrangian…
The interaction of obliquely incident surface gravity waves with a vertical flexible permeable membrane wave barrier is investigated in the context of three-dimensional linear wave-structure interaction theory. A general formulation for…
This paper presents the second-order perturbation theory of the Navier-Stokes equations for free surface flows, with the wave amplitude considered as the perturbation parameter. Gravity-capillary surface waves in incompressible viscous…
In this paper, we consider the stabilization of wave equations with moving boundary. First, we show the solution behaviour of wave equation with Neumann boundary conditions, that is, the energy of wave equation with mixed boundary…
In classical continuum physics, a wave is a mechanical disturbance. Whether the disturbance is stationary or traveling and whether it is caused by the motion of atoms and molecules or the vibration of a lattice structure, a wave can be…
We calculate the rate of ocean waves energy dissipation due to whitecapping by numerical simulation of deterministic phase resolving model for dynamics of ocean surface. Two independent numerical experiments are performed. First, we solve…
We study the local well-posedness of a periodic nonlinear equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude in shallow water. We use an approach due to Kato which is based on semigroup theory for quasi-linear equations. We also show that…
In this paper, we use the approximation of shallow water waves (Margaritondo G 2005 Eur. J. Phys. 26 401) to understand the behaviour of a tsunami in a variable depth. We deduce the shallow water wave equation and the continuity equation…
Wave-breaking is studied analytically first and the results are compared with accurate numerical simulations of 3D wave-breaking. We focus on the time dependence of various quantities becoming singular at the onset of breaking. The power…
We study the break-down mechanism of smooth solution for the gravity water-wave equation of infinite depth. It is proved that if the mean curvature $\kappa$ of the free surface $\Sigma_t$, the trace $(V,B)$ of the velocity at the free…
This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…
Recently, the Whitham and capillary-Whitham equations were shown to accurately model the evolution of surface waves on shallow water. In order to gain a deeper understanding of these equations, we compute periodic, traveling-wave solutions…