Related papers: Wave Statistics and Energy Dissipation of Breaking…
The formulation of a canonical deep-water breaking wave problem is introduced, and the results of a set of three-dimensional numerical simulations for deep-water breaking waves are presented. In this paper fully nonlinear progressive waves…
Many supervised machine learning methods have revolutionised the empirical modelling of complex systems. These empirical models, however, are usually "black boxes" and provide only limited physical explanations about the underlying systems.…
We revisit the classical but as yet unresolved problem of predicting the strength of breaking 2-D and 3-D gravity water waves, as quantified by the amount of wave energy dissipated per breaking event. Following Duncan (1983), the wave…
This paper presents a novel method for obtaining the probability wave of breaking ($P_b$) of deep water, dominant wind-sea waves (that is, waves made of the energy within $\pm$30\% of the peak wave frequency) derived from Gaussian wave…
We report experimental and numerical results on the buildup of the energy spectrum in wave turbulence of a vibrating thin elastic plate. Three steps are observed: first a short linear stage, then the turbulent spectrum is constructed by the…
The behaviour of internal waves propagating in a background shear flow is studied in the case where the direction of shear is orthogonal to gravity. Ray-tracing theory is used to predict properties of the wave state at locations where…
Existing theoretical results for attenuation of surface waves propagating on water of random fluctuating depth are shown to over predict the rate of decay due to the way in which ensemble averaging is performed. A revised approach is…
This paper addresses deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude generated by an initial disturbance to the water. It is assumed that the horizontal dimensions of the initially disturbed body of the water are much larger than the magnitude…
This article describes the fluid dynamics video, "A Numerical Simulation of a Plunging Breaking Wave", which was submitted to the gallery of fluid motion at the 2009 APS/DFD conference. The simulation was of a deep-water plunging breaking…
We report numerical investigations of wave turbulence in a vibrating plate. The possibility to implement advanced measurement techniques and long time numerical simulations makes this system extremely valuable for wave turbulence studies.…
The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the…
Breakup of drop/bubble can be viewed as a result of fundamental force balance when the disruptive force is greater than the restorative force. A disruptive force acting on the drop/bubble tries to deform it, whereas a restorative force…
The objectives of this work are to revisit the experimental measurements on dam break flow over a dry horizontal bed and to provide a detailed insight into the dynamics of the dam break wave impacting a vertical wall downstream the dam,…
This paper aims to quantitatively relate the energy dissipated at a shock wave in a nonlinearly elastic bar to the energy in the oscillations in two related dissipationless, dispersive systems. In contrast to a phase boundary, there is no…
The statistics of breaking wave fields is characterised within a novel multi-layer framework, which generalises the single-layer Saint-Venant system into a multi-layer and non-hydrostatic formulation of the Navier-Stokes equations. We…
In the present Letter we use the Direct Numerical Simulation (DNS) of the Navier-Stokes equation for a two-phase flow (water and air) to study the dynamics of the modulational instability of free surface waves and its contribution to the…
The positions, diameters ($d\geq 100$ $\mu$m), times and velocities of droplets generated by three plunging breaking waves are measured as the droplets move up across a measurement plane located 1.2 cm above the highest point reached by the…
It is noted that the results of recent experiments on the enhancement of turbulent kinetic energy (TKE) dissipation below surface waves can be stated as follows. TKE dissipation is enhanced by a factor $15 H_{ws}/z$ at depths $0.5 H_{ws} <…
Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are also evaluated. An integral parameter is defined in…
Recent increases in computing power have enabled the numerical simulation of many complex flow problems that are of practical and strategic interest for naval applications. A noticeable area of advancement is the computation of turbulent,…