Related papers: Statistics of weakly nonlinear waves on currents w…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…
The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…
We report experimental observations of two canonical surface wave patterns --- ship waves and ring waves --- skewed by sub-surface shear, thus confirming effects predicted by recent theory. Observed ring waves on a still surface with…
We study the waves and wave-making forces acting on ships travelling on currents which vary as a function of depth. Our concern is realism; we consider a real current profile from the Columbia River, and model ships with dimensions and…
By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…
Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a…
A stochastic second-order wave model is applied to assess the statistical properties of wave orbital velocity in random sea states below the water surface. Directional spreading effects as well as the dependency of the water depth are…
Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…
Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…
Nonlinear instability and refraction by ocean currents are both important mechanisms that go beyond the Rayleigh approximation and may be responsible for the formation of freak waves. In this paper, we quantitatively study nonlinear effects…
We investigate a higher order nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation with linear damping and weak viscosity, recently proposed as a model for deep water waves exhibiting frequency downshifting. Through analysis and numerical simulations, we…
We investigate the weakly nonlinear dynamics of transient gravity waves at infinite depth under the influence of a shear current varying linearly with depth. An analytical solution is permitted via integration of the Euler equations.…
A new description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak 3D effects are included as small corrections to exact 2D equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter…
The dispersive motion of surface waves is now routinely used to remotely measure the currents close beneath the surface of oceans and other natural flows. The current manifests as wavelength-dependent Doppler shifts in the spatiotemporal…
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…
A nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation with variable coefficients for surface waves on a large-scale steady nonuniform current has been derived without the assumption of a relative smallness of the velocity of the current. This equation can…
The recent analytical of multi-layer analyses proposed by Sajjadi, Hunt and Drullion (2014) (SHD14) is solved numerically for atmospheric turbulent shear fows blowing over unsteady Stokes water waves, of low to moderate steepness. It is…
Nonlinear wave-induced perturbations are discussed within the framework of the second-order theory. Due to the slow attenuation of the long perturbations with depth, they modulate motions beneath surface waves down to the bottom and can…
A simple analytical model is developed for the current induced by the wind and modified by surface wind-waves in the oceanic surface layer, based on a first-order turbulence closure and including the effect of a vortex force representing…