Related papers: Breaking wave field statistics with a multilayer m…
Using data from a recent field campaign, we evaluate several breaking criteria with the goal of assessing the accuracy of these criteria in wave breaking detection. Two new criteria are also evaluated. An integral parameter is defined in…
The modeling of wave breaking dissipation in coastal areas is investigated with a fully nonlinear and dispersive wave model. The wave propagation model is based on potential flow theory, which initially assumes non-overturning waves.…
We investigate wind wave growth by direct numerical simulations solving for the two phase Navier-Stokes equations. We consider ratio of the wave speed $c$ to wind friction velocity $u_*$ from $c/u_*=$ 2 to 8, i.e. in the slow to…
This paper extends the resolvent formulation proposed by McKeon & Sharma (2010) to consider turbulence-compliant wall interactions. Under this formulation, the turbulent velocity field is expressed as a linear superposition of propagating…
Breaking waves generate a distribution of bubble sizes that evolves over time. Knowledge of how this distribution evolves is of practical importance for maritime and climate studies. The analytical framework developed in Part 1 examined how…
This paper presents numerical simulations of a bichromatic wave group propagating and breaking over a fixed breaker bar. The simulations are performed using a newly stabilized Reynolds-averaged Navier Stokes (RANS) two-equation turbulence…
Wave breaking injects turbulence and bubbles into the upper ocean, modulating air-sea exchange of momentum, heat, gases, and sea-spray aerosols. These fluxes depend nonlinearly on sea state but remain poorly represented in coupled…
Many supervised machine learning methods have revolutionised the empirical modelling of complex systems. These empirical models, however, are usually "black boxes" and provide only limited physical explanations about the underlying systems.…
Using the same measurement techniques as those of Saket et al. (2017), we have investigated the breaking threshold proposed by Barthelemy et al. (arXiv:1508.06002v1, 2015b) but for different classes of unforced unidirectional wave groups in…
In this study, a numerical model preserving a class of nontrivial steady-state solutions is proposed to predict waves propagation and waves run-up on coastal zones. The numerical model is based on the Saint-Venant system with source terms…
In this visualisation the instantaneous local velocity is expressed in terms of four components to capture the development of and interactions between coherent structures in turbulent flows. It is then possible to isolate the terms linked…
We report the first simulations of the Faraday instability using the full three-dimensional Navier-Stokes equations in domains much larger than the characteristic wavelength of the pattern. We use a massively parallel code based on a hybrid…
Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…
Spectral analysis for a class of Lagrangian-averaged Navier--Stokes (LANS) equations on the sphere is carried out. The equations arise from the Navier--Stokes equations by applying a Helmholtz filter of width $\alpha$ to the advecting…
We present an analysis of the Navier-Stokes equations based on a spatial filtering technique to elucidate the multi-scale nature of fully developed turbulence. In particular, the advection of a band-pass-filtered small-scale contribution by…
Two methods to treat wave breaking in the framework of the Hamiltonian formulation of free-surface potential flow are presented, tested, and validated. The first is an extension of Kennedy et al (2000)'s eddy-viscosity approach originally…
Internal waves, or waves that propagate within a stratified fluid, may break and cause mixing. While each individual mixing event may be small, collectively, internal wave breaking drive processes in the ocean that are critical to…
The large deformations and break up of circular 2D liquid patches in a high Reynolds number (Re=1000) gas flow are investigated numerically. The 2D, plane flow Navier--Stokes equations are directly solved with explicit tracking of the…
This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…
For over 70 years it has been assumed that scalar wave propagation in (ensemble-averaged) random particulate materials can be characterised by a single effective wavenumber. Here, however, we show that there exist many effective…