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An unexpected wave is defined by Gemmrich & Garrett (2008) as a wave that is much taller than a set of neighboring waves. Their definition of "unexpected" refers to a wave that is not anticipated by a casual observer. Clearly, unexpected…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-07-26 Francesco Fedele

We report direct observations of surface waves from a stereo camera system along with concurrent measurements of wind speed during an expedition across the Southern Ocean in the austral winter aboard South African icebreaker…

The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of the sea surface has shown that the collision of two groups of relatively low waves with close but noncollinear wave vectors (two or three waves in each group with a steepness of about…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-02-12 V. P. Ruban

The evolution of unidirectional nonlinear sea surface waves is calculated numerically by means of solutions of the Euler equations. The wave dynamics corresponds to quasi-equilibrium states characterized by JONSWAP spectra. The…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-17 Alexey Slunyaev , Anna Sergeeva , Ira Didenkulova

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-07-30 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ivan Veselić , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban

Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-07 Saulo Mendes , Yuchen He , Jérôme Kasparian , Amin Chabchoub

The issue of rogue wave lifetimes is addressed in this study, which helps to detail the general picture of this dangerous oceanic phenomenon. The direct numerical simulations of irregular wave ensembles are performed to obtain the complete…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-03-26 Anna Kokorina , Alexey Slunyaev

Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban

Extreme or rogue waves are large and unexpected waves appearing with higher probability than predicted by Gaussian statistics. Although their formation is explained by both linear and nonlinear wave propagation, nonlinearity has been…

Liquid wave studies have shown that under certain constructive interference conditions, an abnormal size wave could be generated at a specific point. This type of wave, described long ago in the literature, was named 'Draupner Wave' in…

Geophysics · Physics 2020-04-16 Stephane Brule , Stefan Enoch , Sebastien Guenneau

Here, we show through a statistical analysis that rogue waves in broadband non-breaking seas are spatially asymmetric. In addition to the top-down asymmetry due to nonlinear effects, we show that the two troughs adjacent to the rogue wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-09-25 Qiuchen Guo , Louis-Alexandre Couston , Mohammad-Reza Alam

Formation of giant waves in sea states with two spectral maxima, centered at close wave vectors ${\bf k}_0\pm\Delta {\bf k}/2$ in the Fourier plane, is numerically simulated using the fully nonlinear model for long-crested water waves [V.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-13 V. P. Ruban

Using experimental data from three different rogue wave supporting systems, determinism and predictability of the underlying dynamics are evaluated with methods of nonlinear time series analysis. We included original records from the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-03-03 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-30 Alexey Slunyaev , Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky

The processes that generate rogue waves on the sea surface remain a mystery. Despite their different natures, the nonlinear bending waves generated in a thin elastic plate share some similarities with waves on the surface of the sea. For…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2025-07-17 Murukesh Muralidhar , Antoine Naert , Sébastien Aumaître

Powerful rogue ocean waves have been objects of fascination for centuries. Elusive and awe-inspiring, with the ability to inflict catastrophic damage, rogue waves remain unpredictable and imperfectly understood. To gain further insight into…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2022-02-23 Paul Johns , Peter Palffy-Muhoray , Jake Fontana

A statistical theory of rogue waves is proposed and tested against experimental data collected in a long water tank where random waves with different degrees of nonlinearity are mechanically generated and free to propagate along the flume.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-12-25 Giovanni Dematteis , Tobias Grafke , Miguel Onorato , Eric Vanden-Eijnden

The issue of accounting of the wave breaking phenomenon in direct numerical simulations of oceanic waves is discussed. It is emphasized that this problem is crucial for the deterministic description of waves, and also for the dynamical…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-04-04 Alexey Slunyaev , Anna Kokorina
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