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In submerged sandy slopes, soil is frequently eroded as a combination of two main mechanisms: breaching, which refers to the retrogressive failure of a steep slope forming a turbidity current, and, instantaneous sliding wedges, known as…

Modern tsunami deposits are employed to estimate the overland flow characteristics of tsunamis. With the help of the overland-flow characteristics, the characteristics of the causative tsunami wave can be estimated. The understanding of…

Geophysics · Physics 2015-08-04 Hui Tang , Robert Weiss

We present a novel meshless tsunami propagation and inundation model. We discretize the nonlinear shallow-water equations using a well-balanced scheme relying on radial basis function based finite differences. The inundation model relies on…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-05-09 Rüdiger Brecht , Alexander Bihlo , Scott MacLachlan , Jörn Behrens

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-22 David Lannes

With the aim of assessing internal wave-driven mixing in the ocean, we develop a new technique for direct numerical simulations of stratified turbulence. Since the spatial scale of oceanic internal gravity waves is typically much larger…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-04-07 Y. Onuki , S. Joubaud , T. Dauxois

We study wave turbulence in shallow water flows in numerical simulations using two different approximations: the shallow water model, and the Boussinesq model with weak dispersion. The equations for both models were solved using periodic…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-17 P. Clark di Leoni , P. J. Cobelli , P. D. Mininni

In classical tsunami-generation techniques, one neglects the dynamic sea bed displacement resulting from fracturing of a seismic fault. The present study takes into account these dynamic effects. Earth's crust is assumed to be a…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Frederic Dias

We study the propagation of two-dimensional tsunami waves triggered by a seaquake in the open sea in the presence of underlying wind-generated currents, corresponding to background flows of constant vorticity. A suitable scaling of the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-02-15 Frederick Moscatelli

Particles in granular flows are often modeled as frictionless (smooth) inelastic spheres; however, there exist no frictionless grains, just as there are no elastic grains. Our molecular dynamics simulations reveal that friction is essential…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2009-11-10 Sung Joon Moon , J. B. Swift , Harry L. Swinney

Tsunamis are often generated by a moving sea bottom. This paper deals with the case where the tsunami source is an earthquake. The linearized water-wave equations are solved analytically for various sea bottom motions. Numerical results…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Frédéric Dias

We review various methods for the analysis of initial-value problems for integrable dispersive equations in the weak-dispersion or semiclassical regime. Some methods are sufficiently powerful to rigorously explain the generation of…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2016-08-24 Peter D. Miller

Recent scientific studies have suggested that, in certain physical configurations, the time-dependent behavior of earthquake rupture and seafloor (bathymetry) motion can leave observable near-field signatures in tsunami wave generation and…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-08-29 Thomas Melkior , Harsha S Bhat , Faisal Amlani

We present a novel numerical method for simulating the generation and propagation of surface gravity waves by vertical seabed displacements. The cornerstone of our method is the computation of a time dependent conformal map which…

The one-point statistics of column density distributions of turbulent molecular cloud models are investigated and compared with observations. In agreement with the observations, the number N of pixels with surface density S is distributed…

Astrophysics · Physics 2007-05-23 Andreas Burkert , Mordecai-Mark Mac Low

We study a linear model for the propagation of hydro-acoustic waves and tsunami in a stratified free-surface ocean. A formulation was previously obtained by linearizing the compressible Euler equations. The new formulation is obtained by…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-04-29 Juliette Dubois , Sébastien Imperiale , Anne Mangeney , Jacques Sainte-Marie

Inferring seabed topography from wave height observations is fundamental to tsunami hazard assessment, coastal planning, and large scale ocean circulation modeling. Classical inversion models typically rely on direct sensing or optimization…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-09-03 Aoming Liang , Qi Liu , Weicheng Cui

In this paper, we want to understand the Proudman resonance. It is a resonant respond in shallow waters of a water body on a traveling atmospheric disturbance when the speed of the disturbance is close to the typical water wave velocity. We…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-09-28 Benjamin Melinand

The long-term goal of this work is the development of high-fidelity simulation tools for dispersive tsunami propagation. A dispersive model is especially important for short wavelength phenomena such as an asteroid impact into the ocean,…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2021-10-05 Marsha J. Berger , Randall J. LeVeque

The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-07-20 Eric Danioux , Jacques Vanneste

Shallow water waves are a striking example of nonlinear hydrodynamics, giving rise to phenomena such as tsunamis and undular waves. These dynamics are typically studied in hundreds-of-meter-long wave flumes. Here, we demonstrate a…