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Wind-wave interaction involves wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on the turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind and wave loading on structures. Existing research on wind-wave interaction modeling ignores…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-06-07 Tianqi Ma , Chao Sun

A light breeze rising over calm water initiates an intricate chain of events that culminates in a centimeters-deep turbulent shear layer capped by gravity-capillary ripples. At first, viscous stress accelerates a laminar wind-drift layer…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-07-31 Gregory LeClaire Wagner , Nick Pizzo , Luc Lenain , Fabrice Veron

Modeling ocean surface waves under complex ocean current conditions is of crucial importance to many naval applications. For example, traveling ships and underwater vehicles generate spatially heterogeneous currents behind them through…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-15 Tianyi Li , Anqing Xuan , Lian Shen

We investigate the energy growth and dissipation of wind-forced breaking waves at high wind speed using direct numerical simulations of the coupled air-water Navier-Stokes equations. A turbulent wind boundary layer drives the growth of a…

Wind waves are considered as an intermediate small-scale dynamic process at the air-sea interface,which modulates radically middle-scale dynamic processes of the boundary layers in water and air. It is shown that with the aim of a…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-06-22 Vladislav G. Polnikov

The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-09-30 Ravindra Pethiyagoda , Santu Das , Michael H. Meylan

The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-14 Bengt Eliasson , Padma K. Shukla

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

In this work, we consider the mathematical theory of wind generated water waves. This entails determining the stability properties of the family of laminar flow solutions to the two-phase interface Euler equation. We present a rigorous…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-06-22 Oliver Buhler , Jalal Shatah , Samuel Walsh , Chongchun Zeng

The problem of submarine sediment slide which generates the surface water waves is considered. To simulate numerically the landslide motion it is used the method which permits to take into account detailed rheological properties of slide…

On the basis of the author's earlier results, a new source function for a numerical wind-wave model optimized by the criterion of accuracy and speed of calculation is substantiated. The proposed source function includes (a) an optimized…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-06-30 Vladislav Polnikov

Measuring the directional distribution of ocean waves is a difficult task in ocean wave research. For many decades, wind-generated waves are assumed to propagate primarily in the wind direction. The concept is applied either implicitly or…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-07-03 Paul A. Hwang , David W. Wang , James Yungel , Robert N. Swift , William B. Krabill

A laminar flow of a thin layer of mud down an inclined plane under the action of gravity is considered. The instability of a film flow and the formation of finite amplitude waves are studied in the framework of both two-dimensional…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-03-01 Alexander Chesnokov

Wave shape (e.g. wave skewness and asymmetry) impacts sediment transport, remote sensing and ship safety. Previous work showed that wind affects wave shape in intermediate and deep water. Here, we investigate the effect of wind on wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-07-01 Thomas Zdyrski , Falk Feddersen

Due to the multitude of scales present in realistic oceanic conditions, resolving the surface stress is computationally intensive, motivating modeling approaches. In this work, a dynamic wave drag model is developed for Large Eddy…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-05-22 Aditya K. Aiyer , Luc Deike , Michael E. Mueller

The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…

We investigate the effect of a light turbulent wind on a liquid surface, below the onset of wave generation. In that regime, the liquid surface is populated by small disorganised deformations elongated in the streamwise direction. Formally…

Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-10-13 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Bertrand Chapron , J. Thomas Farrar , Luc Deike

Oceanic pressure measurements, even in very deep water, and atmospheric pressure or seismic records, from anywhere on Earth, contain noise with dominant periods between 3 and 10 seconds, that is believed to be excited by ocean surface…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-06-11 Fabrice Ardhuin , Thomas H. C. Herbers

A systematic and full description of the theory for a dissipation mechanism of wind wave energy in a spectral representation is given. As a basis of the theory, the fundamental is stated that the most general dissipation mechanism for wind…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-06-21 Vladislav G. Polnikov