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An explicit expression for the Dirichlet-Neumann operator for surface water waves is presented. For non-overturning waves, but without assuming small amplitudes, the formula is first derived in two dimensions, subsequently extrapolated in…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-11-09 Didier Clamond

This article concerns the water wave problem in a three-dimensional domain of infinite depth and examines the modulational regime for weakly nonlinear wavetrains. We use the method of normal form transformations near the equilibrium state…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-08-25 Philippe Guyenne , Adilbek Kairzhan , Catherine Sulem

Since the pioneering work of Kelvin on Laplace tidal equations, a zoology of trapped waves have been found in the context of coastal dynamics. Among them, the one originally computed by Kelvin plays a particular role, as it is an…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-10-04 Antoine Venaille , Pierre Delplace

A simple model of wave-particle interaction is studied in its self-consistent form, that is, where the particles are allowed to feedback on the waves dynamics. We focus on the configurations of locked solutions (equilibria) and how the…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2025-04-16 Matheus Jean Lazarotto , Iberê Luiz Caldas , Yves Elskens

The inclusion of stochastic terms in equations of motion for fluid problems enables a statistical representation of processes which are left unresolved by numerical computation. Here, we derive stochastic equations for the behaviour of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-03-22 Oliver D. Street

We derive rigorously from the water waves equations new irrotational shallow water models for the propagation of surface waves in the case of uneven topography in horizontal dimensions one and two. The systems are made to capture the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-11-17 Louis Emerald , Martin Oen Paulsen

In this paper we examine the flow generated by coupled surface and internal small-amplitude water waves in a two-fluid layer model, where we take the upper layer to be rotational (constant vorticity) and the lower layer to be irrotational.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-01-21 David Henry , Rossen I. Ivanov , Zisis N. Sakellaris

In 1967, Whitham proposed a simplified surface water-wave model which combined the full linear dispersion relation of the full Euler equations with a weakly linear approximation. The equation he postulated which is now called the Whitham…

Computational Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Evgueni Dinvay , Denys Dutykh , Henrik Kalisch

This paper analyses the Hamiltonian model of drift waves which describes the chaotic transport of particles in the plasma confinement. With one drift wave the system is integrable and it presents stable orbits. When one wave is added the…

We present a complete analytical derivation of the equations used for stationary and nonstationary wave systems regarding resonant sound transmission and reflection described by the phenomenological Coupled-Mode Theory. We calculate the…

Classical Physics · Physics 2018-06-11 Theodoros T. Koutserimpas , Romain Fleury

The Whitham equation is a model for the evolution of small-amplitude, unidirectional waves of all wavelengths on shallow water. It has been shown to accurately model the evolution of waves in laboratory experiments. We compute…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-08-15 John D. Carter

We study traveling wave solutions of an equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude arising as a shallow water approximation of the Euler equations for inviscid, incompressible and homogenous fluids. We obtain solitary waves of…

Classical Analysis and ODEs · Mathematics 2013-12-06 Armengol Gasull , Anna Geyer

Considered in this paper is a bi-directional model for the propagation of interfacial capillary-gravity waves in a two-layer system of fluids with rigid lid condition for the upper layer and lower layer with a much larger or infinite depth.…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-28 A. Durán

This is the full and extended version of the brief note arXiv:1908.00938. A nontrivially solvable 4-dimensional Hamiltonian system is applied to the problem of wave fronts and to the asymptotic theory of partial differential equations. The…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2021-07-15 Yu. Brezhnev , A. Tsvetkova

This paper deals with the dead-water phenomenon, which occurs when a ship sails in a stratified fluid, and experiences an important drag due to waves below the surface. More generally, we study the generation of internal waves by a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-11-18 Vincent Duchene

In this paper we consider two-dimensional water waves with constant vorticity, under the action of gravity and surface tension, in a fluid domain with finite depth and general bottom topography. We present a formulation which generalizes…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-05-22 S. Pasquali

An alternative way for the derivation of the new KdV-type equation is presented. The equation contains terms depending on the bottom topography (there are six new terms in all, three of which are caused by the unevenness of the bottom). It…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2014-08-19 Anna Karczewska , Piotr Rozmej , Eryk Infeld

In this paper, we study the motion of the free surface of a body of fluid over a variable bottom, in a long wave asymptotic regime. We assume that the bottom of the fluid region can be described by a stationary random process $\beta(x,…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-11-13 Anne de Bouard , Walter Craig , Oliver Díaz-Espinosa , Philippe Guyenne , Catherine Sulem

The interaction of localised solitary waves with large-scale, time-varying dispersive mean flows subject to nonconvex flux is studied in the framework of the modified Korteweg-de Vries (mKdV) equation, a canonical model for nonlinear…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2021-11-01 Kiera van der Sande , Gennady A. El , Mark A. Hoefer

We derive the Whitham equations from the water waves equations in the shallow water regime using two different methods, thus obtaining a direct and rigorous link between these two models. The first one is based on the construction of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-10-27 Louis Emerald