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We derive the Whitham equations from the water waves equations in the shallow water regime using two different methods, thus obtaining a direct and rigorous link between these two models. The first one is based on the construction of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-10-27 Louis Emerald

The increasing sensitivity of current and upcoming gravitational-wave (GW) detectors poses stringent requirements on the accuracy of the GW models used for data analysis. If these requirements are not met, systematic errors could dominate…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2025-08-29 Lorenzo Pompili , Alessandra Buonanno , Michael Pürrer

In this paper, we consider capillary-gravity waves propagating on the interface separating two fluids of finite depth and constant density. The flow in each layer is assumed to be incompressible and of constant vorticity. We prove the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-08-18 Daniel Sinambela

We study an inverse scattering problem for a generic hyperbolic system of equations with an unknown coefficient called the reflectivity. The solution of the system models waves (sound, electromagnetic or elastic), and the reflectivity…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2020-02-03 Liliana Borcea , Vladimir Druskin , Alexander V. Mamonov , Mikhail Zaslavsky , Jörn Zimmerling

This article is concerned with infinite depth gravity water waves in two space dimensions. We consider this system expressed in position-velocity potential holomorphic coordinates. Our goal is to study this problem with small wave packet…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2018-09-14 Mihaela Ifrim , Daniel Tataru

Effective field theory descriptions of surface waves on flowing fluids have tended to assume that the flow is irrotational, but this assumption is often impractical due to boundary layer friction and flow recirculation. Here we develop an…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2024-09-26 Alessia Biondi , Scott Robertson , Germain Rousseaux

Assuming that a formal approximation of multiple waves has been obtained by matched asymptotic methods, we derive a {\em Spatial Shadowing lemma} to construct exact solutions near the formal approximation. In Part I, we consider a general…

patt-sol · Physics 2014-11-18 Xiao-Biao Lin

We introduce a new model equation for Stokes gravity waves based on conformal transformations of Euler's equations. The local version of the model equation is relevant for dynamics of shallow water waves. It allows us to characterize the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-12-03 Spencer Locke , Dmitry E. Pelinovsky

In the present article we describe a few simple and efficient finite volume type schemes on moving grids in one spatial dimension combined with appropriate predictor-corrector method to achieve higher resolution. The underlying finite…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2020-05-26 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis , Nina Shokina

The Euler's equations describe the motion of inviscid fluid. In the case of shallow water, when a perturbative asymtotic expansion of the Euler's equations is taken (to a certain order of smallness of the scale parameters), relations to…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-09-02 Rossen I. Ivanov

A unidirectional reduction of the deep-water surface gravity wave problem is derived in physical space using real variables. By employing a near-identity canonical transformation, cubic interactions are eliminated from the Hamiltonian, with…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-26 Päivo Simson

The goal of this work is to investigate particle motions beneath unidirectional, deep-water waves up to the third-order in nonlinearity. A particular focus is on the approximation known as Stokes drift, and how it relates to the particle…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-04-22 Raphael Stuhlmeier

In this paper we present an experimental study of the long surface wave instability that can develop when a granular material flows down a rough inclined plane. The threshold and the dispersion relation of the instability are precisely…

Materials Science · Physics 2009-11-10 Y. Forterre , O. Pouliquen

We study the long-time dynamics of small-amplitude solutions to the three-dimensional gravity-capillary water waves equations for an inviscid and irrotational fluid with periodic boundary conditions. We prove that, for almost all values of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-04-24 Roberto Feola , Riccardo Montalto , Federico Murgante

Parametric rolling is a parametric excitation phenomenon caused by GM variation in waves. There are a lot of studies of the estimation the conditions, the occurrence, and the amplitude of parametric rolling. On the other hand, there are…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-07-04 Keiji Katsumura , Leo Dostal , Taiga Kono , Yuuki Maruyama , Masahiro Sakai , Atsuo Maki

Strategies to model the inspiral, merger and ringdown gravitational waveform of coalescing binaries are restricted in parameter space by the coverage of available numerical-relativity simulations. When more numerical waveforms become…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2019-01-10 Yoshinta Eka Setyawati , Frank Ohme , Sebastian Khan

Using a matched asymptotic expansion we analyze the two-dimensional, near- critical reflection of a weakly nonlinear, internal gravity wave from a sloping boundary in a uniformly stratified fluid. Taking a distinguished limit in which the…

patt-sol · Physics 2017-05-17 T. Dauxois , W. R. Young

Most of the seismic inversion techniques currently proposed focus on robustness with respect to the background model choice or inaccurate physical modeling assumptions, but are not apt to large-scale 3D applications. On the other hand,…

Geophysics · Physics 2021-04-22 Gabrio Rizzuti , Mathias Louboutin , Rongrong Wang , Felix J. Herrmann

In order to determine the steady-state subcritical gravity-capillary waves that are produced by potential flow past a wave-making body, it is typically necessary to impose a radiation condition that allows for capillary waves upstream, but…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-04-22 Sean Jamshidi , Philippe H. Trinh

We construct the solution of the Riemann problem for the shallow water equations with discontinuous topography. The system under consideration is non-strictly hyperbolic and does not admit a fully conservative form, and we establish the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2008-12-24 Philippe G. LeFloch , Mai-Duc Thanh
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