Related papers: Coupling of waves to sea surface currents via hori…
We formulate a model of the two-way interactions between surface gravity waves and ocean currents. The model couples the transport of wave action in the four-dimensional (horizontal) position--wavevector phase space with the…
Refraction is the predominant mechanism causing spatially inhomogeneous surface gravity wave fields. However, the complex interplay between depth- and current-induced wave refraction remains poorly understood. Assuming weak currents and…
Metamaterials and photonic/phononic crystals have been successfully developed in recent years to achieve advanced wave manipulation and control, both in electromagnetism and mechanics. However, the underlying concepts are yet to be fully…
Modeling ocean surface waves under complex ocean current conditions is of crucial importance to many naval applications. For example, traveling ships and underwater vehicles generate spatially heterogeneous currents behind them through…
The nonlinear dynamics of waves at the sea surface is believed to be ruled by the Weak Turbulence framework. In order to investigate the nonlinear coupling among gravity surface waves, we developed an experiment in the Coriolis facility…
Motivated by the discrepancy between satellite observations of coherent westward propagating surface features and Rossby wave theory, this paper revisits the planetary wave propagation problem, taking into account the effects of lateral…
We use molecular dynamics simulations to study the formation of surface waves in vertically vibrated granular material. We find that horizontal movements of particles, which are essential for the formation of the waves, consist of two…
We report experimental observations of traveling waves in a pure fluid with a free surface situated in a long container submitted to a horizontal temperature gradient perpendicular to its large extension. Above a critical value of the…
We investigate experimentally the early stage of the generation of waves by a turbulent wind at the surface of a viscous liquid. The spatio-temporal structure of the surface deformation is analyzed by the optical method Free Surface…
This paper explores an idealized model of the ocean surface in which widely separated surface-wave packets and point vortices interact in two horizontal dimensions. We start with a Lagrangian which, in its general form, depends on the…
The Weak Turbulence Theory is a statistical framework to describe a large ensemble of nonlinearly interacting waves. The archetypal example of such system is the ocean surface that is made of interacting surface gravity waves. Here we…
Via a sequence of approximations of the Lagrangian in Hamilton's principle for dispersive nonlinear gravity waves we derive a hierarchy of Hamiltonian models for describing wave-current interaction (WCI) in nonlinear dispersive wave…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…
It was recently observed that sand flowing down a vertical tube sometimes forms a traveling density pattern in which a number of regions with high density are separated from each other by regions of low density. In this work, we consider…
We present fully three-dimensional local MRI simulations with the object of studying the excitation of non-axisymmetric spiral density waves that are observed to always be present in such simulations. They are potentially important for…
Buoyancy effects in unstably stratified mixing layers express themselves through gravity currents of heavy fluid which propagate in an ambient lighter fluid. These currents are encountered in numerous geophysical flows, industrial safety…
The majority of coastal flows are characterized by turbulence, rendering the application of shallow water equations an inadequate approach for their accurate description. This paper presents a theory for characterizing accelerated coastal…
Ocean turbulence at meso- and submesocales affects the propagation of surface waves through refraction and scattering, inducing spatial modulations in significant wave height (SWH). We develop a theoretical framework that relates these…
The upper few meters of the ocean play a key role in air-sea exchanges of momentum and energy. Two important properties of this layer are the vertical shear of current velocity and the surface velocity. Vertical shear reflects momentum…
The interactions between near-inertial waves (NIWs) and submesoscale currents in the surface ocean are challenging to deconvolve due to their overlapping temporal and spatial scales. The frequency of NIW is modulated by the relative…