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Particularly challenging classes of heterogeneous surfaces are ones where strong secondary circulations are generated, potentially dominating the flow dynamics. In this study, we focus on land-sea breeze circulations (LSBs) resulting from…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-02-08 Mohammad Allouche , Elie Bou-Zeid , Juho Iipponen

The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-07-20 Eric Danioux , Jacques Vanneste

In the study of ocean wave impact on structures, one often uses Froude scaling since the dominant force is gravity. However the presence of trapped or entrained air in the water can significantly modify wave impacts. When air is entrained…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Frédéric Dias , Denys Dutykh , Jean-Michel Ghidaglia

Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the effect of the underlying focussing mechanism on the shape of…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-03-05 Alberto Alberello , Amin Chabchoub , Jason Monty , Filippo Nelli , Jung Lee , John Elsnab , Alessandro Toffoli

Flow nonnormality induced linear transient phenomena in thin self-gravitating astrophysical discs are studied in the shearing sheet approximation. The considered system includes two modes of perturbations: vortex and (spiral density) wave.…

Astrophysics · Physics 2009-11-13 G. R. Mamatsashvili , G. D. Chagelishvili

The aim of this work is to study trapped waves and their collisions between two topographic obstacles for the forced Korteweg-de Vries equation. Numerical simulations show that solitary waves remain trapped bouncing back and forth between…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-09-14 M. V. Flamarion , P. A. Milewski , R. Ribeiro-Jr

The recent analytical of multi-layer analyses proposed by Sajjadi, Hunt and Drullion (2014) (SHD14) is solved numerically for atmospheric turbulent shear fows blowing over unsteady Stokes water waves, of low to moderate steepness. It is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-04-10 Shahrdad G. Sajjadi , Sarena Robertson , Rebecca Harvey , Mary Brown

As atmospheric models move to higher resolution and resolve smaller scales, the maximum modeled wind speed also tends to increase. Wave models tuned to coarser wind fields tend to overestimate the wave growth under strong winds. A recently…

A light breeze rising over calm water initiates an intricate chain of events that culminates in a centimeters-deep turbulent shear layer capped by gravity-capillary ripples. At first, viscous stress accelerates a laminar wind-drift layer…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-07-31 Gregory LeClaire Wagner , Nick Pizzo , Luc Lenain , Fabrice Veron

What do the ocean surface and a swaying flag have in common? Both are deformable surfaces exhibiting chaotic motion when exposed to turbulent flows. Whether such motion is primarily driven by flow turbulence or by nonlinear dynamics…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-25 Giulio Foggi Rota , Andrea Mazzino , Marco Edoardo Rosti

A forced KdV equation is derived to describe weakly nonlinear, shallow water surface wave propagation over non trivial bottom boundary condition. We show that different functional forms of bottom boundary conditions self-consistently…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2015-06-19 Abhik Mukherjee , M. S. Janaki

A nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation for the envelope of two-dimensional gravity-capillary waves propagating at the free surface of a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity is derived. In this paper we extend to gravity-capillary…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-10-17 H. -C. Hsu , C. Kharif , M. Abid , Y. -Y. Chen

Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-10-13 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Bertrand Chapron , J. Thomas Farrar , Luc Deike

A theoretical model is proposed to explain the roughness characteristics of an ice surface grown from a gravity and wind-driven supercooled water film flowing over an inclined plane. The effects of the water supply rate, plane slope and air…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-03-19 K. Ueno , M. Farzaneh

We consider the wind-forced nonlinear Schroedinger (NLS) equation obtained in the potential flow framework when the Miles growth rate is of the order of the wave steepness. In this case, the form of the wind-forcing terms gives rise to the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-06-23 Maura Brunetti , Jérôme Kasparian

This paper studies forced waves for the heterogeneous Fisher-KPP equation $u_t = u_{xx} + u(a(x-ct)-u)$, where $c>0$ and $a(z)>0$ satisfies $a(-\infty)=\alpha>0=a(+\infty)$, $a'(z)\le0$ ($z\gg1$). Using ODE asymptotic analysis, we classify…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-02-05 Zhibao Tang , Shi-Liang Wu , Yaping Wu

We present an experimental realisation of spatial spanwise forcing in a turbulent boundary layer flow, aimed at reducing the frictional drag. The forcing is achieved by a series of spanwise running belts, running in alternating spanwise…

Shallow water waves phenomena in nature attract the attention of scholars and play an important role in fields such as tsunamis, tidal waves, solitary waves, and hydraulic engineering. Hereby,…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2024-05-13 Peng-Fei Han , Yi Zhang

Oceanic internal waves often have curvilinear fronts and propagate over various currents. We present the first study of long weakly-nonlinear internal ring waves in a three-layer fluid in the presence of a background linear shear current.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-07-01 D. Tseluiko , N. S. Alharthi , R. Barros , K. R. Khusnutdinova

The mild-slope equation and its various modifications aim to model, with varying degrees of success, linear water wave propagation over sloping or undulating seabed topography. However, despite multiple modifications and attempted…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-06-26 Chengnian Xiao