Related papers: Wind-Induced Changes to Shoaling Surface Gravity W…
Wave shape (e.g. wave skewness and asymmetry) impacts sediment transport, remote sensing and ship safety. Previous work showed that wind affects wave shape in intermediate and deep water. Here, we investigate the effect of wind on wave…
Wave shape (i.e. skewness or asymmetry) plays an important role in beach morphology evolution, remote sensing, and ship safety. Wind's influence on ocean waves has been extensively studied theoretically in the context of growth, but most…
Wind-wave interaction involves wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on the turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind and wave loading on structures. Existing research on wind-wave interaction modeling ignores…
This paper considers the propagation of shallow-water solitary and nonlinear periodic waves over a gradual slope with bottom friction in the framework of a variable-coefficient Korteweg-de Vries equation. We use the Whitham averaging…
We investigate wind wave growth by direct numerical simulations solving for the two phase Navier-Stokes equations. We consider ratio of the wave speed $c$ to wind friction velocity $u_*$ from $c/u_*=$ 2 to 8, i.e. in the slow to…
We study the propagation of monochromatic surface waves on a turbulent flow. The flow is generated in a layer of liquid metal by an electromagnetic forcing. This forcing creates a quasi two-dimensional (2D) turbulence with strong vertical…
The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…
We investigate the energy growth and dissipation of wind-forced breaking waves at high wind speed using direct numerical simulations of the coupled air-water Navier-Stokes equations. A turbulent wind boundary layer drives the growth of a…
Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…
A simple analytical model is developed for the current induced by the wind and modified by surface wind-waves in the oceanic surface layer, based on a first-order turbulence closure and including the effect of a vortex force representing…
The generation of ocean surface waves by wind is a classic fluid mechanics problem whose theoretical study dates back to 1957, when the two seminal papers by Phillips and Miles were published in the incipient Journal of Fluid Mechanics.…
Wind-wave interactions impose wind forcing on wave surface and wave effects on turbulent wind structures, which essentially influences the wind-wave loading on structures. Existing research treats the wind and wave loading separately and…
Wave shoaling of water waves over mild bottom slopes is well described by linearized theories. However, the analytical treatment of nonlinear wave shoaling subject to rapidly varying bottoms has proven to be elusive in the past decades. As…
The breaking of surface gravity waves is a key process contributing to air-sea fluxes and turbulent ocean mixing. The highly nonlinear nature of wave breaking, combined with the challenges of observing this process in a laboratory or field…
In recent papers, denoted by MG24, MG25 in this text, we used the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation and its two-dimensional extension, the Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) equation to describe the evolution of wind-driven water wave packets in…
Wind farms, particularly offshore clusters, are becoming larger than ever before. Besides influencing wind farms and local meteorology downstream, large wind farms can trigger atmospheric gravity waves in the inversion layer and the free…
Impact loads from waves on vessels and coastal structures are complex and may involve wave breaking, which has made these loads difficult to estimate numerically or empirically. Results from previous experiments have shown a wide range of…
This work is an analytical investigation of the evolution of surface water waves in Miles and Jeffreys theories of wind wave interaction in water of finite depth. The present review is divided into two major parts. The first corresponds to…
Experimental and theoretical studies on wind-wave generation have focused primarily on the air-water interface, where viscous effects are small. Here we characterize the influence of the liquid viscosity on the growth of mechanically…
Particles such as microplastics and phytoplankton suspended in the water column in the natural environment are often subject to the action of surface gravity waves. By modelling such anisotropic particles as small spheroids that slowly…