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We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-06-26 Eytan Meisner , Mariano Galvagno , David Andrade , Dan Liberzon , Raphael Stuhlmeier

The Hamiltonian formulation of the water wave problem due to Zakharov, and the reduced Zakharov equation derived therefrom, have great utility in understanding and modelling water waves. Here we set out to review the cubic Zakharov equation…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-03-12 Raphael Stuhlmeier

We review the theory of wave interaction in finite and infinite depth. Both of these strands of water-wave research begin with the deterministic governing equations for water waves, from which simplified equations can be derived to model…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-09-11 Raphael Stuhlmeier , Teodor Vrecica , Yaron Toledo

In this work we discuss an approximate model for the propagation of deep irrotational water waves, specifically the model obtained by keeping only quadratic nonlinearities in the water waves system under the Zakharov/Craig-Sulem…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-01-06 Vincent Duchêne , Benjamin Melinand

A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-24 Ilia Mindlin

The inclusion of stochastic terms in equations of motion for fluid problems enables a statistical representation of processes which are left unresolved by numerical computation. Here, we derive stochastic equations for the behaviour of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-03-22 Oliver D. Street

Water waves are well-known to be dispersive at the linearization level. Considering the fully nonlinear systems, we prove for reasonably smooth solutions the optimal Strichartz estimates for pure gravity waves and the semi-classical…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-09-27 Quang-Huy Nguyen

A new operator equation for periodic gravity waves on water of finite depth is derived and investigated; it is equivalent to Babenko's equation considered in \cite{KD}. Both operators in the proposed equation are nonlinear and depend on the…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2019-06-18 Evgueni Dinvay , Nikolay Kuznetsov

We introduce a very weak space-time variational formulation for the wave equation, prove its well-posedness (even in the case of minimal regularity) and optimal inf-sup stability. Then, we introduce a tensor product-style space-time…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2021-07-27 Julian Henning , Davide Palitta , Valeria Simoncini , Karsten Urban

Our goal in this paper is to initiate the rigorous investigation of wave turbulence and derivation of wave kinetic equations (WKE) for water waves models. This problem has received intense attention in recent years in the context of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-04-22 Yu Deng , Alexandru D. Ionescu , Fabio Pusateri

In this manuscript we investigate the Benjamin-Feir (or modulation) instability for the spatial evolution of water waves from the perspective of the discrete, spatial Zakharov equation, which captures cubically nonlinear and resonant wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-03-12 Conor Heffernan , Amin Chabchoub , Raphael Stuhlmeier

We study numerically the generation of power laws in the framework of weak turbulence theory for surface gravity waves in deep water. Starting from a random wave field, we let the system evolve numerically according to the nonlinear Euler…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-07 M. Onorato , A. R. Osborne , D. Resio , A. Pushkarev , V. Zakharov , M. Serio , C. Brandini

In this paper, we show that a revised convolutional recurrent neural network (CRNN) can decrease, by orders of magnitude, the time needed for the phase-resolved prediction of waves in a spatiotemporal domain of a nonlinear dispersive wave…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-08-04 Fazlolah Mohaghegh , Mohammad-Reza Alam , Jayathi Murthy

Physics of nonlinear waves on variable backgrounds and the relevant mathematical analysis continues to be the challenging aspect of the study. In this work, we consider a (3+1)-dimensional nonlinear model describing the dynamics of {water…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2022-03-09 Sudhir Singh , K. Sakkaravarthi , K. Murugesan

Using ideas from paracontrolled calculus, we prove local well-posedness of a renormalized version of the three-dimensional stochastic nonlinear wave equation with quadratic nonlinearity forced by an additive space-time white noise on a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-06-23 Massimiliano Gubinelli , Herbert Koch , Tadahiro Oh

In this short note, we derive a system of two nonlocal equations for the water-wave problem following the work of [AFM06]. Specifically, we consider a fluid with a one-dimensional free surface for an irrotational fluid both with, and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-08-04 KL Oliveras

In the paper a new nonlinear equation describing shallow water waves with the topography of the bottom directly taken into account is derived. This equation is valid in the weakly nonlinear, dispersive and long wavelength limit. Some…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2014-05-22 Anna Karczewska , Piotr Rozmej , Łukasz Rutkowski

This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-12-02 Jinghua Wang

We present a novel numerical method for simulating the generation and propagation of surface gravity waves by vertical seabed displacements. The cornerstone of our method is the computation of a time dependent conformal map which…

A new description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak 3D effects are included as small corrections to exact 2D equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban
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