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Spiral wave solutions are found in linear and weakly nonlinear irrotational water wave equations. These unsteady spiral waves evolve from suitable initial conditions; they are not induced by external forcing. In the linear case, a long-time…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-10-27 Mark J. Ablowitz , Justin T. Cole , Sean D. Nixon

The problem of a travelling wave over an arbitrary quasi-flat bathymetry in a semi infinite channel is studied in the shallow-water formulation. It is shown how the streamfunction can be cast, in the vicinity of an elliptic equilibrium for…

Dynamical Systems · Mathematics 2018-02-12 Alessandro Fortunati

In this paper we study the locomotion of a shape-changing body swimming in a two-dimensional perfect fluid of infinite extent. The shape-changes are prescribed as functions of time satisfying constraints ensuring that they result from the…

Optimization and Control · Mathematics 2009-10-29 Thomas Chambrion , Alexandre Munnier

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-22 David Lannes

We derive scaling laws for the steady spectrum of wind excited waves, assuming two inviscid fluids (air and water) and no surface tension, an approximation valid at large speeds. In this limit there exists an unique (small) dimensionless…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2010-03-16 Yves Pomeau Yves , Martine Le Berre

In the linear approximation we study long wave scattering on an axially symmetric flow in a shallow water basin with a drain in the center. This classical problem can be considered as a model of wave scattering on a rotating black hole. For…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-05-15 Semyon Churilov , Yury Stepanyants

In this manuscript we perform an extensive numerical study of the long wave interaction problem with a fixed partially immersed body into a fluid layer. The incident wave is assumed to be an isolated solitary wave. The body in this study is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-04-19 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Oleg Gusev

Two-dimensional free-surface potential flows of an ideal fluid over a strongly inhomogeneous bottom are investigated with the help of conformal mappings. Weakly-nonlinear and exact nonlinear equations of motion are derived by the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-08 V. P. Ruban

We derive and analyse well-posed boundary conditions for the linear shallow water wave equation. The analysis is based on the energy method and it identifies the number, location and form of the boundary conditions so that the initial…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-09-29 Rudi Prihandoko , Kenneth Duru , Stephen Roberts , Christopher Zoppou

In this paper we address the return to equilibrium problem for an axisymmetric floating structure in shallow water. First we show that the equation for the solid motion can be reduced to a delay differential equation involving an…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-06-24 Edoardo Bocchi

A statistical method for calculating equilibrium solutions of the shallow water equations, a model of essentially 2-d fluid flow with a free surface, is described. The model contains a competing acoustic turbulent {\it direct} energy…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-06 Peter B. Weichman , Dean M. Petrich

The complex formations exhibited by schooling fish have long been the object of fascination for biologists and physicists. However, the physical and sensory mechanisms leading to organized collective behavior remain elusive. On the physical…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-07-09 Anand U. Oza , Eva Kanso , Michael J. Shelley

We modify the nonlinear shallow water equations, the Korteweg-de Vries equation, and the Whitham equation, to permit constant vorticity, and examine wave breaking, or the lack thereof. By wave breaking, we mean that the solution remains…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2017-05-19 Vera Mikyoung Hur

An experimental validation of theoretical models of transmission of regular water waves by large arrays of floating disks is presented. The experiments are conducted in a wave basin. The models are based on combined potential-flow and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-03-18 Luke Bennetts , Timothy Williams

We study free surface water waves in a 2-D symmetric triangular channel with sides that have a 45o slope. We develop models for small amplitude nonlinear waves, extending earlier studies that have considered the linearized problem. We see…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-08-31 P. Panayotaros , R. M. Vargas-Magaña

Nonlinear initial-boundary value problem on deep-water gravity waves of finite amplitude is solved approximately (up to small terms of higher order) assuming that the waves are generated by an initial disturbance to the water and the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-06-09 I. M. Mindlin

This paper deals with systems of spherical particles immersed in a viscous fluid. Two aspects are studied, namely the controllability of such systems, with particular attention to the case of one active particle and either one or two…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-10-23 Marta Zoppello , Henry Shum , Marco Morandotti

We study the nonlinear interactions of waves with a doubled-peaked power spectrum in shallow water. The starting point is the prototypical equation for nonlinear uni-directional waves in shallow water, i.e. the Korteweg de Vries equation.…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-07 M. Onorato , D. Ambrosi , A. R. Osborne , M. Serio

Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-07-04 Christian Kharif , Malek Abid

The paper is concerned with the boundary controllability of entropy weak solutions to hyperbolic systems of conservation laws. We prove a general result on the asymptotic stabilization of a system near a constant state. On the other hand,…

Optimization and Control · Mathematics 2007-05-23 Alberto Bressan , Giuseppe Maria Coclite