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A general method for the derivation of asymptotic nonlinear shallow water and deep water models is presented. Starting from a general dimensionless version of the water-wave equations, we reduce the problem to a system of two equations on…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-10-09 David Lannes , Philippe Bonneton

Coupled Boussinesq equations describe long weakly-nonlinear longitudinal strain waves in a bi-layer with a soft bonding between the layers (e.g. a soft adhesive). From the mathematical viewpoint, a particularly difficult case appears when…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2022-11-30 K. R. Khusnutdinova , M. R. Tranter

Coupled Boussinesq equations describe long weakly-nonlinear longitudinal strain waves in a bi-layer with a soft bonding between the layers (e.g. a soft adhesive). From the mathematical viewpoint, a particularly difficult case appears when…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-10-28 K. R. Khusnutdinova , M. R. Tranter

We consider the (in)stability problem of the inviscid 2D Boussinesq equations near a combination of a shear flow $v=(y,0)$ and a stratified temperature $\theta=\alpha y$ with $\alpha>\frac{1}{4}$. We show that for any $\epsilon>0$ there…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-09-07 Christian Zillinger

In this work, a novel Boussinesq system is put forward. The system is naturally nonlinearly entropy/energy-stable, and is designed for problems with sharply varying bathymetric features. The system is flexible and allows tuning of the…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-02-21 Magnus Svärd , Henrik Kalisch

We consider the periodic initial-value problem for the Serre equations of water-wave theory and its semidiscrete approximation in the space of smooth periodic polynomial splines. We prove that the semidiscrete problem is well posed, locally…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2021-07-13 D. C. Antonopoulos , V. A. Dougalis , D. E. Mitsotakis

Considered here are Boussinesq systems of equations of surface water wave theory over a variable bottom. A simplified such Boussinesq system is derived and solved numerically by the standard Galerkin-finite element method. We study by…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-09-15 Dimitrios Mitsotakis

Finite volume schemes are commonly used to construct approximate solutions to conservation laws. In this study we extend the framework of the finite volume methods to dispersive water wave models, in particular to Boussinesq type systems.…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-01-13 Denys Dutykh , Theodoros Katsaounis , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

We study bidirectional one-dimensional (1-D) shallow-water waves within a class of Boussinesq equations, including the integrable Kaup-Boussinesq (KB) equation and a truncated-dispersion variant, which serves as a representative…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2026-03-30 Ashleigh Simonis , Sergey Nazarenko , Jalal Shatah , Yulin Pan

Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-07-19 Saulo Mendes , Jérôme Kasparian

The rotating shallow water equations with f-plane approximation and nonlinear bottom drag are a prototypical model for mid-latitude geophysical flow that experience energy loss through simple topography. Motivated by numerical schemes for…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-09-18 Artur Prugger , Jens D. M. Rademacher , Jichen Yang

A variety of self-consistent (SC) equations have been proposed for non-uniform states of liquid particles under external fields, including adsorbed states at solid substrates and confined states in pores. External fields represent not only…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2021-02-05 Hiroshi Frusawa

A coupled BBM system of equations is studied in the situation of water waves propagating over decreasing fluid depth. A conservation equation for mass and a wave breaking criterion valid in the Boussinesq approximation is found. A Fourier…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-01-27 Amutha Senthilkumar

In the paper a new nonlinear equation describing shallow water waves with the topography of the bottom directly taken into account is derived. This equation is valid in the weakly nonlinear, dispersive and long wavelength limit. Some…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2014-05-22 Anna Karczewska , Piotr Rozmej , Łukasz Rutkowski

Nowadays we have many methods allowing to exploit the regularising properties of the linear part of a nonlinear dispersive equation (such as the KdV equation, the nonlinear wave or the nonlinear Schroedinger equations) in order to prove…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2018-12-14 Nikolay Tzvetkov

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

In this article we establish the existence of weak solutions to the shallow medium equation. We proceed by an approximation argument. First we truncate the coefficients of the equation from above and below. Then we prove convergence of the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-01-23 Verena Bögelein , Nicolas Dietrich , Matias Vestberg

We consider nonparametric estimation of a mixed discrete-continuous distribution under anisotropic smoothness conditions and possibly increasing number of support points for the discrete part of the distribution. For these settings, we…

Statistics Theory · Mathematics 2018-06-21 Andriy Norets , Justinas Pelenis

In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-05-02 Etienne Mémin , Long Li , Noé Lahaye , Gilles Tissot , Bertrand Chapron

In this paper, we consider a problem inspired by the real-world need to identify the topographical features of ocean basins. Specifically we consider the problem of estimating the bottom impermeable boundary to an inviscid, incompressible,…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-08-22 Vishal Vasan , Manisha , Didier Auroux