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Recent laboratory experiments of Bolles et al. (2019) demonstrate that an abrupt change in bottom topography can trigger anomalous statistics in randomized surface waves. Motivated by these observations, Majda et al. (2019) developed a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-01-07 M. N. J. Moore , C. Tyler Bolles , Andrew J. Majda , Di Qi

A computational strategy based on large deviation theory (LDT) is used to study the anomalous statistical features of turbulent surface waves propagating past an abrupt depth change created via a step in the bottom topography. The dynamics…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-06-12 Di Qi , Eric Vanden-Eijnden

The Gibbs ensemble of the truncated KdV (TKdV) equation has been shown to accurately describe the anomalous wave statistics observed in laboratory experiments, in particular the emergence of extreme events. Here, we introduce a novel…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-02-19 Nicholas J. Moore , Brendan Foerster

We study here the water-waves problem for uneven bottoms in a highly nonlinear regime where the small amplitude assumption of the Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation is enforced. It is known, that for such regimes, a generalization of the KdV…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-01-22 Samer Israwi

The work presented here emanates from questions arising from experimental observations of the propagation of surface water waves. The experiments in question featured a periodically moving wavemaker located at one end of a flume that…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2019-06-13 Jerry L. Bona , Jonatan Lenells

A new type of wave-mean flow interaction is identified and studied in which a small-amplitude, linear, dispersive modulated wave propagates through an evolving, nonlinear, large-scale fluid state such as an expansion (rarefaction) wave or a…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2019-08-06 T. Congy , G. A. El , M. A. Hoefer

A new model for Korteweg and de-Vries equation (KdV) is derived. The system under study is an open channel consisting of two concentric cylinders, rotating about their vertical axis, which is tilted by slope {\tau} from the inertial…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2021-11-16 Hajar Alshoufi

Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-01-30 C. Tyler Bolles , Kevin Speer , M. N. J. Moore

This paper provides an alternative methodology for analysis of three-wave interactions under the exact dispersion relation associated with gravity waves in fluid of intermediate depth. A Korteweg-de Vries type of equation with exact…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-06 N. Karjanto

The KdV equation is a model equation for waves at the surface of an inviscid incompressible fluid, and it is well known that the equation describes the evolution of unidirectional waves of small amplitude and long wavelength fairly…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-03-31 Mats K. Brun , Henrik Kalisch

The stability of periodic traveling wave solutions to dispersive PDEs with respect to `arbitrary' perturbations is still widely open. The focus is put here on stability with respect to perturbations of the same period as the wave, for…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-09-21 Sylvie Benzoni-Gavage , Colin Mietka , L. Miguel Rodrigues

In this work, we investigate non-classical wavetrain formations, and particularly dispersive shock waves (DSWs), or undular bores, in systems exhibiting non-convex dispersion. Our prototypical model, which arises in shallow water wave…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2025-03-06 Saleh Baqer , Theodoros P. Horikis , Dimitrios J. Frantzeskakis

The Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation is a fundamental partial differential equation that models wave propagation in shallow water and other dispersive media. Accurately solving the KdV equation is essential for understanding wave dynamics…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2024-10-10 Qiming Wu

The paper's main goal is to compare the motion of solitary surface waves resulting from two similar but slightly different approaches. In the first approach, the numerical evolution of soliton surface waves moving over the uneven bottom is…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2021-01-19 Anna Karczewska , Piotr Rozmej

We study extreme wave formation for the Korteweg-de Vries equation on the torus with random initial data of average size $\epsilon$. We establish a large deviations principle for the supremum of the solution over arbitrarily long polynomial…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-05-04 Riccardo Berforini D'Aquino , Ricardo Grande

In this paper we focus on the water waves problem for uneven bottoms on a two-dimensionnal domain. Starting from the symmetric Boussinesq systems derived in [Chazel, Influence of topography on long water waves, 2007], we recover the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-02-02 Florent Chazel

We study the construction of invariant measures associated with higher order conservation laws of the intermediate long wave equation (ILW) and their convergence properties in the deep-water and shallow-water limits. By exploiting its…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-09-12 Andreia Chapouto , Guopeng Li , Tadahiro Oh

Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Anna Kokorina , Efim Pelinovsky

The evolution of a solitary wave with very weak nonlinearity which was originally investigated by Miles [4] is revisited. The solution for a one-dimensional gravity wave in a water of uniform depth is considered. This leads to finding the…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2017-04-11 S. G. Sajjadi , T. A. Smith

Using Levi-Civita's theory of ideal fluids, we derive the complex Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation, describing the complex velocity of a shallow fluid up to first order. We use perturbation theory, and the long wave, slowly varying velocity…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-03-01 Matthew Crabb , Nail Akhmediev
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