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A simple, intuitive, and low-cost setup for generating and measuring capillary waves is presented enabling a precise determination of the dispersion relation for a cylindrical water jet. By setting the phase velocity and measuring the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-11-06 Wout M. Goesaert , Paul S. W. M. Logman

The present article discusses the exact observability of the wave equation when the observation subset of the boundary is variable in time. In the one-dimensional case, we prove an equivalent condition for the exact observability, which…

Optimization and Control · Mathematics 2019-04-02 Antonio Agresti , Daniele Andreucci , Paola Loreti

The refraction of surface gravity waves by currents leads to spatial modulations in the wave field and, in particular, in the significant wave height. We examine this phenomenon in the case of waves scattered by a localised current feature,…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-11-13 Han Wang , Ana B. Villas Bôas , William R. Young , Jacques Vanneste

The stability of idealized shear flow at long wavelengths is studied in detail. A hydrodynamic analysis at the level of the Navier-Stokes equation for small shear rates is given to identify the origin and universality of an instability at…

Condensed Matter · Physics 2009-10-30 Jose M. Montanero , Andres Santos , Mirim Lee , James W. Dufty , J. F. Lutsko

We demonstrate that mechanical waves traveling in a torsional, mechanical wave machine exhibit dispersion due to gravity and the discreteness of the medium. We also show that although the dispersion due to discreteness is negligible, the…

Classical Physics · Physics 2015-06-22 Rafael de la Madrid , Alejandro Gonzalez , George Irwin

We study theoretically the capillary-gravity waves created at the water-air interface by a small two-dimensional perturbation when a depth-dependent current is initially present in the fluid. Assuming linear wave theory, we derive a general…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2015-05-28 Michael Benzaquen , Elie Raphael

We develop a method to calculate the persistent currents and their spatial distribution (and transport properties) on graphs made of quasi-1D diffusive wires. They are directly related to the field derivatives of the determinant of a matrix…

Mesoscale and Nanoscale Physics · Physics 2009-10-31 M. Pascaud , G. Montambaux

We show experimentally that a stable wave propagating into a region characterized by an opposite current may become modulationaly unstable. Experiments have been performed in two independent wave tank facilities; both of them are equipped…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-07-30 A. Toffoli , T. Waseda , H. Houtani , T. Kinoshita , K. Collins , D. Proment , M. Onorato

In this paper we construct periodic capillarity-gravity water waves with a piecewise constant vorticity distribution. They describe water waves traveling on superposed linearly sheared currents that have different vorticities. This is…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2013-02-25 Calin Iulian Martin , Bogdan--Vasile Matioc

We investigate analytically the linearized water wave radiation problem for an oscillating submerged point source in an inviscid shear flow with a free surface. A constant depth is taken into account and the shear flow increases linearly…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-06-29 Simen Å. Ellingsen , Peder A. Tyvand

The nonlinear dynamics of an obliquely oriented wave packet at sea surface is studied both analytically and numerically for various initial parameters of the packet, in connection with the problem of oceanic rogue waves. In the framework of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-04-10 V. P. Ruban

Surface water waves in ideal fluids have been typically modeled by asymptotic approximations of the full Euler equations. Some of these simplified models lose relevant properties of the full water wave problem. One of them is the Galilean…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Angel Duran , Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

We investigate the bounds between normal or anomalous effective diffusion for inertial particles transported by parallel flows. The infrared behavior of the fluid kinetic-energy spectrum, i.e. the possible presence of long-range…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-07-07 Marco Martins Afonso

Acoustic perturbations in a parallel relativistic flow of an inviscid fluid are considered. The general expression for the frequency of the sound waves in a uniformly (with zero shear) moving medium is derived. It is shown that relativity…

Astrophysics · Physics 2007-05-23 A. D. Rogava , V. I. Berezhiani , S. M. Mahajan

The stability of an exponential current in water to infinitesimal perturbations in the presence of gravity and capillarity is investigated. Some new results on the generation of gravity-capillary waves are presented which supplement the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-05-23 Malek Abid , Christian Kharif

Using waves to explore our environment is a widely used paradigm, ranging from seismology to radar technology, and from bio-medical imaging to precision measurements. In all of these fields, the central aim is to gather as much information…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2024-09-12 Jakob Hüpfl , Felix Russo , Lukas M. Rachbauer , Dorian Bouchet , Junjie Lu , Ulrich Kuhl , Stefan Rotter

For any kind of wave phenomenon one can find ways to derive the respective dispersion relation from experimental observations and measurements. This dispersion relation determines the structure of the wave equation and thus characterizes…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-01-21 Gerd Leuchs , Mojdeh S. Najafabadi

A new inversion method for determining near-surface shear currents from a measured wave spectrum is introduced. The method is straightforward to implement and starts from the existing state-of-the-art technique of assigning effective depths…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-19 Benjamin K. Smeltzer , Eirik Æsøy , Anna Ådnøy , Simen Å. Ellingsen

We present a numerical study of essentially nonlinear dynamics of surface gravity waves on deep water with constant vorticity using governing equations in conformal coordinates. The dispersion relation of surface gravity waves on shear flow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-01 A. S. Dosaev , M. I. Shishina , Yu. I. Troitskaya

Rip currents pose a significant danger to those who visit beaches, as they can swiftly pull swimmers away from shore. Detecting these currents currently relies on costly equipment and is challenging to implement on a larger scale. The…

Image and Video Processing · Electrical Eng. & Systems 2024-02-22 Anchen Sun , Kaiqi Yang