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Non-stationary time series modelling is applied to long tidal records from Esbjerg, Denmark, and coupled to climate change projections for sea-level and storminess, to produce projections of likely future sea-level maxima. The model has…

Robust estimators and different filtering techniques are proposed and their impact on the determination of a wide range of turbulence quantities is analysed. High-frequency water level measurements in a stepped spillway are used as a case…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-07-13 Daniel Valero , Hubert Chanson , Daniel B. Bung

Impact loads from waves on vessels and coastal structures are complex and may involve wave breaking, which has made these loads difficult to estimate numerically or empirically. Results from previous experiments have shown a wide range of…

Storm surge, the onshore rush of sea water caused by the high winds and low pressure associated with a hurricane, can compound the effects of inland flooding caused by rainfall, leading to loss of property and loss of life for residents of…

Applications · Statistics 2009-09-29 Brian J. Reich , Montserrat Fuentes

Recent studies have shown that, in coastal waters where water depth decreases significantly due to rapid bathymetric changes, the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) substantially increases the occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-04-01 Jie Zhang , Yuxiang Ma , Jiawen Sun , Limin Huang , Michel Benoit , Saulo Mendes

Vertically 0.042-m-spaced moored high-resolution temperature sensors are used for detailed internal wave-turbulence monitoring near Texel North Sea and Wadden Sea beaches on calm summer days. In the maximum 2 m deep waters irregular…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-06-07 Hans van Haren

We develop an efficient numerical method for the probabilistic quantification of the response statistics of nonlinear multi-degree-of-freedom structural systems under extreme forcing events, emphasizing accurate heavy-tail statistics. The…

Computational Engineering, Finance, and Science · Computer Science 2017-06-05 Han Kyul Joo , Mustafa A. Mohamad , Themistoklis P. Sapsis

Waves propagating through a weakly scattering random medium show a pronounced branching of the flow accompanied by the formation of freak waves, i.e., extremely intense waves. Theory predicts that this strong fluctuation regime is…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2013-11-05 S. Barkhofen , J. Metzger , R. Fleischmann , U. Kuhl , H. -J. Stoeckmann

Gravity wave turbulence is studied experimentally in a large wave basin where irregular waves are generated unidirectionally. The role of the basin boundary conditions (absorbing or reflecting) and of the forcing properties are…

The statistical properties of fluid particles transported by a fully developed turbulent flow are investigated by means of high resolution direct numerical simulations. Single trajectory statistics is investigated in a time range spanning…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2007-05-23 L. Biferale , G. Boffetta , A. Celani , A. Lanotte , F. Toschi

The statistical properties of fully developed hydrodynamic turbulence can be successfully described using methods from nonextensive statistical mechanics. The predicted probability densities and scaling exponents precisely coincide with…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2009-11-07 Christian Beck

Nonlinear waves in a liquid with gas bubbles are studied. Higher order terms with respect to the small parameter are taken into account in the derivation of the equation for nonlinear waves. A nonlinear differential equation is derived for…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2013-07-09 Nikolai A. Kudryashov , Dmitry I. Sinelshchikov

A framework for deriving probabilistic data-driven closure models is proposed for coarse-grained numerical simulations of turbulence in statistically stationary state. The approach unites the ideal large-eddy simulation model and data…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-03-25 Sagy Ephrati

Consideration is given to three different full dispersion Boussinesq systems arising as asymptotic models in the bi-directional propagation of weakly nonlinear surface waves in shallow water. We prove that, under a non-cavitation condition…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-03-28 Martin Oen Paulsen

By numerical simulation of exact equations of motion (in terms of conformal variables) for planar non-stationary potential flows of an ideal fluid with a free surface over a strongly non-uniform bottom profile, the effect of nonlinear…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-02-10 Victor P. Ruban

A plethora of studies in the past decade describe tsunami hazards and study their evolution from the source to the target coastline, but mainly focus on coastal inundation and maximum runup. Nonetheless, anecdotal reports from eyewitnesses,…

Geophysics · Physics 2016-11-15 Roberto Marivela , Robert Weiss , Costas Synolakis

Landslides plunging into lakes and reservoirs can result in extreme wave runup at shores. This phenomenon has claimed lives and caused damage to near-shore properties. Landslide tsunamis in lakes are different from typical earthquake…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-04-23 Louis-Alexandre Couston , Chiang C Mei , Mohammad-Reza Alam

We study blow-up behavior of solutions for the Cauchy problem of the semilinear wave equation with time-dependent damping. When the damping is effective, and the nonlinearity is subcritical, we show the blow-up rates and the sharp lifespan…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-12-14 Kazumasa Fujiwara , Masahiro Ikeda , Yuta Wakasugi

We perform numerical simulations of the dynamical equations for free water surface in finite basin in presence of gravity. Wave Turbulence (WT) is a theory derived for describing statistics of weakly nonlinear waves in the infinite basin…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2009-11-11 Yuri V. Lvov , Sergey Nazarenko , Boris Pokorni

In computing ship motion statistics (e.g., exceeding probability) in an irregular wave field, it is a common practice to represent the irregular waves by a large number of wave groups and compute the motion statistics from the distribution…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-08-30 Xianliang Gong , Yulin Pan