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We derive the Whitham equations from the water waves equations in the shallow water regime using two different methods, thus obtaining a direct and rigorous link between these two models. The first one is based on the construction of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-10-27 Louis Emerald

We derive rigorously from the water waves equations new irrotational shallow water models for the propagation of surface waves in the case of uneven topography in horizontal dimensions one and two. The systems are made to capture the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-11-17 Louis Emerald , Martin Oen Paulsen

In 1967, Whitham proposed a simplified surface water-wave model which combined the full linear dispersion relation of the full Euler equations with a weakly linear approximation. The equation he postulated which is now called the Whitham…

Computational Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Evgueni Dinvay , Denys Dutykh , Henrik Kalisch

This paper describes a method for deriving approximate equations for irrotational water waves. The method is based on a 'relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many variables as possible. This formulation is…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Didier Clamond , Denys Dutykh

In the present study a mathematical model of long-crested water waves propagating mainly in one direction with the effect of Earth's rotation is derived by following the formal asymptotic procedures. Such a model equation is analogous to…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2019-05-01 Guilong Gui , Yue Liu , Junwei Sun

The present article is the third part of a series of papers devoted to the shallow water wave modelling. In this part, we investigate the derivation of some long wave models on a deformed sphere. We propose first a suitable for our purposes…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Zinaida Fedotova

Formally second-order correct, mathematical descriptions of long-crested water waves propagating mainly in one direction are derived. These equations are analogous to the first-order approximations of KdV- or BBM-type. The advantage of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2017-05-02 J. L. Bona , X. Carvajal , M. Panthee , M. Scialom

A general method for the derivation of asymptotic nonlinear shallow water and deep water models is presented. Starting from a general dimensionless version of the water-wave equations, we reduce the problem to a system of two equations on…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-10-09 David Lannes , Philippe Bonneton

A new description for highly nonlinear potential water waves is suggested, where weak 3D effects are included as small corrections to exact 2D equations written in conformal variables. Contrary to the traditional approach, a small parameter…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban

We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-11-22 Konstantin Ilin

In this paper we derive a new formulation of the water waves equations with vorticity that generalizes the well-known Zalkarov-Craig-Sulem formulation used in the irrotational case. We prove the local well-posedness of this formulation, and…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2014-02-04 Angel Castro , David Lannes

In this paper, we review the history and current state-of-the-art in the modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves. For the sake of conciseness of this review, we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Zinaida Fedotova , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

The propagation of water waves of finite depth and flat bottom is studied in the case when the depth is not small in comparison to the wavelength. This propagation regime is complementary to the long-wave regime described by the famous KdV…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2024-05-31 Rossen I. Ivanov

The Whitham equation was proposed as an alternate model equation for the simplified description of uni-directional wave motion at the surface of an inviscid fluid. As the Whitham equation incorporates the full linear dispersion relation of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Daulet Moldabayev , Henrik Kalisch , Denys Dutykh

An approximate dispersion relation is derived and presented for linear surface waves atop a shear current whose magnitude and direction can vary arbitrarily with depth. The approximation, derived to first order of deviation from potential…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-01-21 Simen Å. Ellingsen , Yan Li

Two-dimensional nonlinear gravity waves travelling in shallow water on a vertically sheared current of constant vorticity are considered. Using Euler equations, in the shallow water approximation, hyperbolic equations for the surface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-07-04 Christian Kharif , Malek Abid

In this work we discuss an approximate model for the propagation of deep irrotational water waves, specifically the model obtained by keeping only quadratic nonlinearities in the water waves system under the Zakharov/Craig-Sulem…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-01-06 Vincent Duchêne , Benjamin Melinand

Third-order approximate solutions for surface gravity waves in the finite water depth are studied in the context of potential flow theory. This solution provides explicit expressions for the surface elevation, free-surface velocity…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-09-15 Zhe Gao , Z. C Sun , S. X Liang

Salmon's nearly geostrophic model for rotating shallow-water flow is derived in full spherical geometry. The model, which results upon constraining the velocity field to the height field in Hamilton's principle for rotating shallow-water…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2007-05-23 F. J. Beron-Vera

In this article, a modification of the rapidly convergent approximation method is proposed to solve a coupled Korteweg-de Vries equations with conformable derivative that govern shallow-water waves. Based on the Leibniz and chain rule of…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2020-11-04 Prakash Kumar Das
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