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Prediction is a central goal and a yet-unresolved challenge in the investigation of oceanic rogue waves. Here we define a horizon of predictability for oceanic rogue waves and derive, via extensive computational experiments, the first…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-07-02 Reza Alam

We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2012-07-11 L. H. Ying , Z. Zhuang , E. J. Heller , L. Kaplan

The occurrence of extreme (rogue) waves in the ocean is for the most part still shrouded in mystery, as the rare nature of these events makes them difficult to analyze with traditional methods. Modern data mining and machine learning…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2021-08-13 Dion Häfner , Johannes Gemmrich , Markus Jochum

We consider the problem of large wave prediction in two-dimensional water waves. Such waves form due to the synergistic effect of dispersive mixing of smaller wave groups and the action of localized nonlinear wave interactions that leads to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-04-26 Mohammad Farazmand , Themistoklis P. Sapsis

Using experimental data from three different rogue wave supporting systems, determinism and predictability of the underlying dynamics are evaluated with methods of nonlinear time series analysis. We included original records from the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-03-03 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

The appearance of rogue waves in deep sea is investigated using the modified nonlinear Schr\"odinger (MNLS) equation in one spatial-dimension with random initial conditions that are assumed to be normally distributed, with a spectrum…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-01-24 Giovanni Dematteis , Tobias Grafke , Eric Vanden-Eijnden

Using the inverse spectral theory of the nonlinear Schrodinger (NLS) equation we correlate the development of rogue waves in oceanic sea states characterized by the JONSWAP spectrum with the proximity to homoclinic solutions of the NLS…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2007-05-23 Constance Schober , Alvaro Islas

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-06-26 Eytan Meisner , Mariano Galvagno , David Andrade , Dan Liberzon , Raphael Stuhlmeier

The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of random sea waves at moderately small Benjamin-Feir indices and its comparison with the linear dynamics (at the coincidence of spatial Fourier harmonics near a spectral peak at a certain…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-09-05 V. P. Ruban

Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-07-30 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ivan Veselić , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-09-14 Alexey V. Slunyaev , Anna V. Kokorina

We review the study of rogue waves and related instabilities in optical and oceanic environments, with particular focus on recent experimental developments. In optics, we emphasize results arising from the use of real-time measurement…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-12-24 J. M. Dudley , G. Genty , A. Mussot , A. Chabchoub , F. Dias

There are many examples in physics of systems showing rogue wave behaviour, the generation of high amplitude events at low probability. Although initially studied in oceanography, rogue waves have now been seen in many other domains, with…

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

In this paper, we propose and apply a deep learning strategy for the early detection of the Draupner rogue (freak) wave, which is also known as the New Year's wave. We use a long short term memory (LSTM) network and show that Draupner rogue…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-12-31 Cihan Bayindir

In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-30 Alexey Slunyaev , Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky

We discuss the possible advantages of using the wavelet transform over the Fourier transform for the early detection of rogue waves. We show that the triangular wavelet spectra of the rogue waves can be detected at early stages of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-12-09 Cihan Bayindir

This article focuses on signal classification for deep-sea acoustic neutrino detection. In the deep sea, the background of transient signals is very diverse. Approaches like matched filtering are not sufficient to distinguish between…

Instrumentation and Methods for Astrophysics · Physics 2011-04-19 M. Neff , G. Anton , A. Enzenhöfer , K. Graf , J. Hößl , U. Katz , R. Lahmann , C. Richardt

Phytoplankton plays an important role in marine ecosystem. It is defined as a biological factor to assess marine quality. The identification of phytoplankton species has a high potential for monitoring environmental, climate changes and for…

Machine Learning · Statistics 2017-01-24 Thi-Thu-Hong Phan , Emilie Poisson Caillault , André Bigand

Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban
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