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Here we discuss some issues concerning the statistical properties of ocean surface waves. We show that, using the approach of weak turbulence theory, deviations from Gaussian statistics can be naturally included. In particular we discuss…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2007-05-23 M. Onorato , A. R. Osborne , M. Serio

In this paper, we revisit Janssen's (2003) formulation for the dynamic excess kurtosis of weakly nonlinear gravity waves at deep water. For narrowband directional spectra, the formulation is given by a sixfold integral that depends upon the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-07-26 Francesco Fedele

Waves propagating through weakly disordered smooth linear media undergo a universal phenomenon called branched flow. Branched flow has been observed and studied experimentally in various systems by considering coherent waves. Recent…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-04-09 Josselin Garnier , Antonio Picozzi , Theo Torres

A dynamical effect of coherent backscattering is predicted theoretically and supported by computer simulations: The distribution of single-mode delay times of waves reflected by a disordered waveguide depends on whether the incident and…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2007-05-23 H. Schomerus , K. J. H. van Bemmel , C. W. J. Beenakker

The classical dynamics and the construction of quantum states in a plane wave curved spacetime are examined, paying particular attention to the similarities with the case of an electromagnetic plane wave in flat spacetime. A natural map…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2024-06-28 Giulio Audagnotto , Antonino Di Piazza

We study statistical properties after a sudden episode of wind for water waves propagating in one direction. A wave with random initial conditions is propagated using a forced-damped higher order Nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation (NLS).…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-07-09 D. Eeltink , A. Armaroli , Y. M. Ducimetière , J. Kasparian , M. Brunetti

We describe a geometric method to quantify wave patterns observed in the nervous system, which are non-stationary and with a mixture of spiral, target, plane and irregular waves. The method analyzes fluctuations of the energy angular…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2015-03-13 Chuan Zhang , Kentaroh Takagaki , Xiaoying Huang , Steven J. Schiff , Jian-Young Wu

We report an experimental investigation of the statistical time dynamic of spatial Fourier modes in a fully developped turbulent jet flow. Measurements rely on an original acoustic scattering technique, allowing the direct and continuous…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2009-11-11 C. Poulain , N. Mazellier , Y. Gagne , C. Baudet

Diffusion models provide a principled framework for generative modeling via stochastic differential equations and time-reversed dynamics. Extending spectral diffusion approaches to spherical data, however, raises nontrivial geometric and…

Probability · Mathematics 2026-01-29 Pierpaolo Brutti , Claudio Durastanti , Francesco Mari

Modeling turbulent flows by a random Fourier decomposition is a classical procedure in order to use simplified models of turbulence in heat transport and other applications. We carefully investigate the Fourier time series of…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2026-05-14 Paolo Cifani , Franco Flandoli , Andrea Zanoni

We describe here an experimental technique based on the acoustic scattering phenomenon allowing the direct probing of the vorticity field in a turbulent flow. Using time-frequency distributions, recently introduced in signal analysis…

chao-dyn · Physics 2009-10-31 Christophe Baudet , Olivier Michel , William J. Williams

The nonlinear dynamics of an obliquely oriented wave packet at sea surface is studied both analytically and numerically for various initial parameters of the packet, in connection with the problem of oceanic rogue waves. In the framework of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-04-10 V. P. Ruban

A systematic method is proposed for the determination of the statistical properties of a field consisting of a coherent structure interacting with turbulent linear waves. The explicit expression of the generating functional of the…

Plasma Physics · Physics 2009-11-07 F. Spineanu , M. Vlad

Numerical wave models can output partitioned wave parameters at each grid point using a spectral partitioning technique. Because these wave partitions are usually organized according to the magnitude of their wave energy without considering…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-10-23 Haoyu Jiang

We study the propagation of two-dimensional tsunami waves triggered by a seaquake in the open sea in the presence of underlying wind-generated currents, corresponding to background flows of constant vorticity. A suitable scaling of the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-02-15 Frederick Moscatelli

Planar flows with a free boundary in a partially filled and nonuniformly rotating container, with a strongly noncircular shape of the cross-section, are investigated numerically within the ideal fluid approximation. Vorticity is assumed…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-06-09 Victor P. Ruban

We discuss the relation between three recent approaches of describing the dynamics and the spatial distribution of particles suspended in turbulent flows: phase-space singularities in the inertial particle dynamics (caustics), real-space…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-05 K. Gustavsson , E. Meneguz , M. Reeks , B. Mehlig

A study of the wave dynamics around a multiple fishing cage system is carried out under the assumption of the linear water wave theory and small-amplitude wave response. The Fourier--Bessel series expansion of the velocity potential is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-06-30 Siluvai Antony Selvan , R. Gayathri , Harekrushna Behera , Michael H Meylan

Coherent wave control is of key importance across a broad range of fields such as electromagnetics, photonics, and acoustics. It enables us to amplify or suppress the outgoing waves via engineering amplitudes and phases of multiple…

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-06-26 Eytan Meisner , Mariano Galvagno , David Andrade , Dan Liberzon , Raphael Stuhlmeier
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