Related papers: Crest speeds of unsteady surface water waves
Observations show that maximally-steep breaking water wave crest speeds are much slower than expected. We report a wave-crest slowdown mechanism generic to unsteady propagating deep water wave groups. Our fully nonlinear computations show…
Recently, Banner et al. (2014) highlighted a new fundamental property of open ocean wave groups, the so-called crest slowdown. For linear narrowband waves, this is related to the geometric and dynamical phase velocities $U_d$ and $U_g$…
The kinematic properties of unsteady highly non-linear 3D wave groups have been investigated using a numerical wave tank. Although carrier wave speeds based on zero-crossing analysis remain within +-7% of linear theory predictions, crests…
A new type of steady steep two-dimensional irrotational symmetric periodic gravity waves on inviscid incompressible fluid of infinite depth is revealed. We demonstrate that these waves have sharper crests in comparison with the Stokes waves…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
We consider the stability of periodic gravity free-surface water waves traveling downstream at a constant speed over a shear flow of finite depth. In case the free surface is flat, a sharp criterion of linear instability is established for…
We investigate steady symmetric gravity water waves on finite depth. For non-positive vorticity it is shown that the particles display a mean forward drift, and for a class of waves we prove that the size of this drift is strictly…
The last decade has seen a significant increase in the number of studies devoted to wave turbulence. Many deal with water waves, as modeling of ocean waves has historically motivated the development of weak turbulence theory, which adresses…
The unsteady response of a water free surface to a localized pressure source moving at constant speed $U$ in the range $0.95c_\mathrm{min} \lesssim U \leq 1.02 c_\mathrm{min}$, where $c_\mathrm{min}$ is the minimum phase speed of linear…
We construct small-amplitude periodic water waves with multiple critical layers. In addition to waves with arbitrarily many critical layers and a single crest in each period, two-dimensional sets of waves with several crests and troughs in…
A weakly nonlinear theory has been proposed and developed for calculating the energy- transfer rate to individual waves in a group. It is shown what portion of total energy- transfer rate, over the envelope of wave group, affects individual…
We prove local higher-order asymptotics for extreme water waves with vorticity near stagnation points. We obtain that the behaviour of solutions and their regularity depend substantially on the vorticity. In particular, we show that extreme…
We study stationary capillary-gravity waves in a two-dimensional body of water that rests above a flat ocean bed and below vacuum. This system is described by the Euler equations with a free surface. Our main result states that there exist…
Although internal gravity waves are generally recognized as an important mechanism to distribute energy through the atmosphere, their dynamics near the instability is only partially understood to date. Many types of instabilities, notably…
We prove that for a large class of vorticity functions the crest of a corresponding travelling water wave is necessarily a point of maximal horizontal velocity. We also show that for waves with nonpositive vorticity the pressure in the flow…
The linear stability of rapid granular flow on a slope under gravity against the longitudinal perturbation is analyzed using hydrodynamic equations. It is demonstrated that the steady flow uniform along the flow direction becomes unstable…
We report on the observation of surface gravity wave turbulence at scales larger than the forcing ones in a large basin. In addition to the downscale transfer usually reported in gravity wave turbulence, an upscale transfer is observed,…
We study, by means of computer simulations, the crystal-melt interface of three different systems: hard-spheres, Lennard Jones and the TIP4P/2005 water model. In particular, we focus on the dynamics of surface waves. We observe that the…
Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…
We consider the linearized instability of 2D irrotational solitary water waves. The maxima of energy and the travel speed of solitary waves are not obtained at the highest wave, which has a 120 degree angle at the crest. Under the…