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Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies a significant increase in run-up…
A~machine learning framework is developed to estimate ocean-wave conditions. By supervised training of machine learning models on many thousands of iterations of a physics-based wave model, accurate representations of significant wave…
Prior literature has argued that flood insurance maps may not capture the extent of flood risk. This paper performs a granular assessment of coastal flood risk in the mortgage market by using physical simulations of hurricane storm surge…
Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…
The computational burden of running a complex computer model can make optimization impractical. Gaussian Processes (GPs) are statistical surrogates (also known as emulators) that alleviate this issue since they cheaply replace the computer…
During hurricanes, coupled wave-circulation models are critical tools for public safety. The standard approach is to use a high fidelity circulation model coupled with a wave model which uses the most advanced source terms. As a result, the…
The present study concerns the numerical modeling of sea-wave instability under the effect of logarithmic-wind profile in hurricane conditions. The central point of the study is the calculation of the wave growth rate, which is proportional…
The present study concerns the numerical modeling of sea-wave instability under the effect of logarithmic-wind profile in hurricane conditions. The central point of the study is the calculation of the wave growth rate, which is proportional…
Coastal erosion is a major and growing environmental problem describing the movement of sand caused by tides, waves or currents. Several phenomena contribute to the significant advance of the sea. These include climate change, with rising…
We consider the problem of large wave prediction in two-dimensional water waves. Such waves form due to the synergistic effect of dispersive mixing of smaller wave groups and the action of localized nonlinear wave interactions that leads to…
Tropical cyclones are one of the most powerful and destructive natural phenomena on earth. Tropical storms and heavy rains can cause floods, which lead to human lives and economic loss. Devastating winds accompanying cyclones heavily affect…
Predicting changes in sea ice cover is critical for shipping, ecosystem monitoring, and climate modeling. Current sea ice models, however, predict more ice than is observed in the Arctic, and less in the Antarctic. Improving the fit of…
Tropical cyclones cause significant inland hazards, including wind damage and freshwater flooding, that depend strongly on how storm intensity evolves at and after landfall. Existing theoretical predictions for the time-dependent and…
Numerical models of the ocean and ice sheets are crucial for understanding and simulating the impact of greenhouse gases on the global climate. Oceanic processes affect phenomena such as hurricanes, extreme precipitation, and droughts.…
We investigate the ocean wave field under Hurricane SAM (2021). Whilst measurements of waves under Tropical Cyclones (TCs) are rare, an unusually large number of quality in situ and remote measurements are available in that case. First, we…
Ice storms are extreme weather events that can have devastating implications for the sustainability of natural ecosystems as well as man made infrastructure. Ice storms are caused by a complex mix of atmospheric conditions and are among the…
Simulation models are widely used in practice to facilitate decision-making in a complex, dynamic and stochastic environment. But they are computationally expensive to execute and optimize, due to lack of analytical tractability. Simulation…
Stochastic wind sea is an intermediate small-scale physical process responsible for the state of the atmospheric boundary layer and the water upper layer, having dynamics of all scales. To describe behavior of this system, one could use the…
The runup of initial Gaussian narrow-banded and wide-banded wave fields and its statistical characteristics are investigated using direct numerical simulations, based on the nonlinear shallow water equations. The bathymetry consists of the…
Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…