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Measuring the directional distribution of ocean waves is a difficult task in ocean wave research. For many decades, wind-generated waves are assumed to propagate primarily in the wind direction. The concept is applied either implicitly or…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-07-03 Paul A. Hwang , David W. Wang , James Yungel , Robert N. Swift , William B. Krabill

The directional distribution of ocean surface roughness is examined using the Ku, C and L band microwave radar backscattering. The parameters characterizing the upwind-downwind and upwind-crosswind variations show nonmonotonic dependence on…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-06-27 Paul A. Hwang

Ocean wind waves are a fundamental manifestation of complex dynamics in geophysical fluid systems, characterized by a rich interplay between dispersion and nonlinearity. While linear wave theory provides a first-order description of wave…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2026-04-20 Davide Maestrini , Giovanni Dematteis , Alvise Benetazzo , Miguel Onorato

The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…

The generation of ocean surface waves by wind is a classic fluid mechanics problem whose theoretical study dates back to 1957, when the two seminal papers by Phillips and Miles were published in the incipient Journal of Fluid Mechanics.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-02-17 Tianyi Li , Lian Shen

Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-01-27 Ina Teutsch , Saulo Mendes , Jerome Kasparian

Waves are observed at all layers of the solar atmosphere and the magnetic field plays a key role in their propagation. While deep down in the atmosphere the p-modes are almost entirely of acoustic nature, in the upper layers magnetic forces…

Solar and Stellar Astrophysics · Physics 2015-06-15 Elena Khomenko , Irantzu Calvo Santamaria

The instability and nonlinear evolution of directional ocean waves is investigated numerically by means of simulations of the governing kinetic equation for narrow-band surface waves. Our simulation results reveal the onset of the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-14 Bengt Eliasson , Padma K. Shukla

A systematic and full description of the theory for a dissipation mechanism of wind wave energy in a spectral representation is given. As a basis of the theory, the fundamental is stated that the most general dissipation mechanism for wind…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-06-21 Vladislav G. Polnikov

New parameterizations for the spectra dissipation of wind-generated waves are proposed. The rates of dissipation have no predetermined spectral shapes and are functions of the wave spectrum and wind speed and direction, in a way consistent…

Wave propagation is studied in a sufficiently anisotropic random medium that backscattering along one direction can be neglected. A Fokker-Planck equation is derived the solution to which would provide a complete statistical description of…

Disordered Systems and Neural Networks · Physics 2009-10-31 Yi-Kuo Yu , H. Mathur

We develop a new methodology for the deterministic forecasting of directional ocean surface waves, based on nonlinear frequency corrections. These frequency corrections can be pre-computed based on measured energy density spectra, and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-06-26 Eytan Meisner , Mariano Galvagno , David Andrade , Dan Liberzon , Raphael Stuhlmeier

In this work we study oceanic waves in a shallow water flow subject to strong wind forcing and rotation, and linearized around a inhomogeneous (non zonal) stationary profile. This extends the study \cite{CGPS}, where the profile was assumed…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2010-11-22 Isabelle Gallagher , Thierry Paul , Laure Saint-Raymond

A new model other than the classical ones given by Airy, Stokes and Gerstner for the ocean surface wave is constructed. It leads to new understandings for the wave mechanisms: (1) A wave with bigger amplitude or smaller steepness travels…

General Physics · Physics 2017-05-16 Jin-Liang Wang

Waves of various types carry momentum, which is associated with their propagation direction, i.e., the phase gradient. The circulation of the wave momentum density gives rise to orbital angular momentum (AM). Additionally, for waves…

Optics · Physics 2025-10-17 Konstantin Y. Bliokh

Motivated by the discrepancy between satellite observations of coherent westward propagating surface features and Rossby wave theory, this paper revisits the planetary wave propagation problem, taking into account the effects of lateral…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-08-01 Xiao Xiao , K. Shafer Smith , Shane R. Keating

We propose an efficient design route to generate unidirectional propagation of the designer surface acoustic waves. The whole system consists of a periodically corrugated rigid plate combining with a pair of asymmetric narrow slits. The…

Classical Physics · Physics 2014-11-10 Jiuyang Lu , Chunyin Qiu , Manzhu Ke , Zhengyou Liu

The propagation and evolution of planet-generated density waves in protoplanetary disks is considered. The evolution of waves, leading to the shock formation and wake dissipation, is followed in the weakly nonlinear regime. The local…

Astrophysics · Physics 2009-11-07 Roman Rafikov

Internal waves propagate on the ocean's stratification, carrying energy and redistributing momentum through the ocean. When internal waves break, they contribute to diapycnal mixing in the ocean interior, but this breaking behaviour depends…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-07-31 Ashley J. Barnes , Callum J. Shakespeare , Andy McC. Hogg , Navid C. Constantinou

In this paper, we present numerical and experimental evidence of directional wave behavior, i.e. beaming and diffraction, along high-order rotational symmetries of quasicrystalline elastic metamaterial plates. These structures are obtained…

Applied Physics · Physics 2022-01-31 Danilo Beli , Matheus Inguaggiato Nora Rosa , Carlos De Marqui , Massimo Ruzzene
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