Related papers: Surface waves over currents and uneven bottom
Experiments on 2D random water wave propagation in a large wave tank are analyzed when the effect of dispersion changes. A stereoscopic profilometry technique is used to measure the water surface displacement resolved in both time and space…
We introduce a numerical strategy to study the evolution of 2D water waves in the presence of a plunging jet. The free-surface Navier-Stokes solution is obtained with a finite but small viscosity. We observe the formation of a surface…
Laboratory experiments reveal that variations in bottom topography can qualitatively alter the distribution of randomized surface waves. A normally-distributed, unidirectional wave field becomes highly skewed and non-Gaussian upon…
The dispersion relation of surface waves of a magnetic fluid in a magnetic field is studied experimentally. We verify the theoretically predicted existence of a non-monotonic dispersion relation. In particular, we demonstrate the existence…
This paper is devoted to the derivation and mathematical analysis of a wave-structure interaction problem which can be reduced to a transmission problem for a Boussinesq system. Initial boundary value problems and transmission problems in…
Direct numerical simulations are conducted to study the receptivity and transition mechanisms in a solitary wave boundary layer developing over randomly organized wave-like bottom topography. The boundary layer flow shows a selective…
Ocean waves are complex and often turbulent. While most ocean wave interactions are essentially linear, sometimes two or more waves interact in a nonlinear way. For example, two or more waves can interact and yield waves that are much…
We report on the experimental observation of solitons propagating along a torus of fluid. We show that such a periodic system leads to significant differences compared to the classical plane geometry. In particular, we highlight the…
We study the propagation of monochromatic surface waves on a turbulent flow. The flow is generated in a layer of liquid metal by an electromagnetic forcing. This forcing creates a quasi two-dimensional (2D) turbulence with strong vertical…
We consider KdV-type equations with $C^1$ nonhomogeneous nonlinearities and small dispersion $\varepsilon$. The first result consists in the conclusion that, in the leading term with respect to $\varepsilon$, the solitary waves in this…
Over the years, the directional distribution functions of wind-generated wave field have been assumed to be unimodal. While details of various functional forms differ, these directional models suggest that waves of all spectral components…
In this paper, we investigate the well-posedness of a nonlinear dispersive model with variable coefficients that describes the evolution of surface waves propagating through a one-dimensional shallow water channel of finite length with…
The topographical scattering of gravity waves is investigated using a spectral energy balance equation that accounts for first order wave-bottom Bragg scattering. This model represents the bottom topography and surface waves with spectra,…
On the curved surfaces of living and nonliving materials, planar excitable waves frequently exhibit directional change and subsequently undergo a topological change; that is, a series of wave dynamics from fusion, annihilation to splitting.…
In current scientific and technological scenario, studies of transmittance of surface waves across structured interfaces have gained some wind amidst applications to metasurfaces, electronic edge-waves, crystal grain boundaries, etc. The…
We study the two-dimensional rotating shallow-water model describing Earth's oceanic layers. It is formally analogue to a Schr\"odinger equation where the tools from topological insulators are relevant. Once regularized at small scale by an…
Physicists face major challenges in modelling multi-scale phenomena that are observed in geophysical flows (e.g. in the Earth's oceans and atmosphere, or liquid planetary cores). In particular, complexities arise because geophysical fluids…
In this paper we examine the flow generated by coupled surface and internal small-amplitude water waves in a two-fluid layer model, where we take the upper layer to be rotational (constant vorticity) and the lower layer to be irrotational.…
The computation of long wave propagation through the ocean obviously depends on the initial condition. When the waves are generated by a moving bottom, a traditional approach consists in translating the ``frozen'' sea bed deformation to the…
The goal of this note is to provide a theoretical explanation for the saturation of the drag coefficient in strong wind conditions. The hydrodynamic model under consideration takes into account the important effects of airborne droplets of…