Related papers: Surface waves over currents and uneven bottom
Here I present a general formulation of water wave propagation and scattering over topographical bottoms. A simple equation is found and is compared with existing theories. As an application, the theory is extended to the case of water…
We study dispersion properties of linear surface gravity waves propagating in an arbitrary direction atop a current profile of depth-varying magnitude using a piecewise linear approximation, and develop a robust numerical framework for…
The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…
A two-dimensional water wave system is examined consisting of two discrete incompressible fluid domains separated by a free common interface. In a geophysical context this is a model of an internal wave, formed at a pycnocline or…
In this paper we derive a higher-order KdV equation (HKdV) as a model to describe the unidirectional propagation of waves on an internal interface separating two fluid layers of varying densities. Our model incorporates underlying currents…
The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…
The generation of ocean surface waves by wind is a classic fluid mechanics problem whose theoretical study dates back to 1957, when the two seminal papers by Phillips and Miles were published in the incipient Journal of Fluid Mechanics.…
Recent laboratory experiments of Bolles et al. (2019) demonstrate that an abrupt change in bottom topography can trigger anomalous statistics in randomized surface waves. Motivated by these observations, Majda et al. (2019) developed a…
One the major factors determining the development and evolution of atmospheric convection is the sea surface temperature and its variability. Results of this thesis show that state of atmospheric convection impacts the diurnal distribution…
We focus here on the water waves problem for uneven bottoms in the long-wave regime, on an unbounded two or three-dimensional domain. In order to derive asymptotic models for this problem, we consider two different regimes of bottom…
The KdV equation is a model equation for waves at the surface of an inviscid incompressible fluid, and it is well known that the equation describes the evolution of unidirectional waves of small amplitude and long wavelength fairly…
Should it be a pebble hitting water surface or an explosion taking place underwater, concentric surface waves inevitably propagate. Except for possibly early times of the impact, finite amplitude concentric water waves emerge from a balance…
We study the waves at the interface between two thin horizontal layers of immiscible fluids subject to high-frequency horizontal vibrations. Previously, the variational principle for energy functional, which can be adopted for treatment of…
A new type of wave-mean flow interaction is identified and studied in which a small-amplitude, linear, dispersive modulated wave propagates through an evolving, nonlinear, large-scale fluid state such as an expansion (rarefaction) wave or a…
This is a study of the Euler equations for free surface water waves in the case of varying bathymetry, considering the problem in the shallow water scaling regime. In the case of rapidly varying periodic bottom boundaries this is a problem…
Nonlinear wave-induced perturbations are discussed within the framework of the second-order theory. Due to the slow attenuation of the long perturbations with depth, they modulate motions beneath surface waves down to the bottom and can…
Long linear wave transformation in the basin of varying depth is studied for a case of a convex bottom profile in the framework of one-dimensional shallow water equation. The existence of travelling wave solutions in this geometry and the…
The equations for waves on the surface of an irrotational incompressible fluid are derived in the coordinates of the velocity potential/stream function. The low frequency shallow water approximation for these waves is derived for a varying…
Theoretical studies on the modulation of unidimensional regular waves over a flat bottom due to a current typically assign an asymmetry between the effects of opposing/following streams on the evolution of major sea variables, such as…
The data of simultaneous measurements of the surface displacement produced by propagating planar waves in experimental flume and of the dynamic pressure beneath the waves are compared with the theoretical predictions based on different…