English
Related papers

Related papers: Anomalous wave statistics induced by abrupt depth …

200 papers

Recent studies have shown that, in coastal waters where water depth decreases significantly due to rapid bathymetric changes, the non-equilibrium dynamics (NED) substantially increases the occurrence probability of extreme (rogue) waves.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-04-01 Jie Zhang , Yuxiang Ma , Jiawen Sun , Limin Huang , Michel Benoit , Saulo Mendes

This study investigates the numerical evolution of an initially internal random wave field characterized by a Gaussian spectrum shape using the Benjamin-Ono (BO) equation. The research focuses on analyzing various properties associated with…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-07-18 Marcelo V. Flamarion , Efim Pelinovsky

The evolution of unidirectional nonlinear sea surface waves is calculated numerically by means of solutions of the Euler equations. The wave dynamics corresponds to quasi-equilibrium states characterized by JONSWAP spectra. The…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-17 Alexey Slunyaev , Anna Sergeeva , Ira Didenkulova

The surface gravity wave evolution, imitating tsunamis triggered by the ocean floor's arbitrary temporal motion over a generic seafloor topography, is investigated using the linearised water wave theory of a compressible ocean. The…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-09-30 Ravindra Pethiyagoda , Santu Das , Michael H. Meylan

The evolution of surface gravity waves is driven by nonlinear interactions that trigger an energy cascade similarly to the one observed in hydrodynamic turbulence. This process, known as wave turbulence, has been found to display anomalous…

We examine the general question of statistical changes experienced by ensembles of nonlinear random waves propagating in systems ruled by integrable equations. In our study that enters within the framework of integrable turbulence, we…

Optics · Physics 2016-08-24 S. Randoux , P. Walczak , M. Onorato , P. Suret

Waves traveling through random media exhibit random focusing that leads to extremely high wave intensities even in the absence of nonlinearities. Although such extreme events are present in a wide variety of physical systems and the…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-17 Jakob J. Metzger , Ragnar Fleischmann , Theo Geisel

Numerically computed with high accuracy are periodic traveling waves at the free surface of a two dimensional, infinitely deep, and constant vorticity flow of an incompressible inviscid fluid, under gravity, without the effects of surface…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-01-25 Sergey A. Dyachenko , Vera Mikyoung Hur , Denis A. Silantyev

We investigate experimentally the statistical properties of a wind-generated wave field and the spontaneous formation of rogue waves in an annular flume. Unlike many experiments on rogue waves, where waves are mechanically generated, here…

Rogue waves are rapid and unpredictable events of exceptional amplitude reported in various fields, such as oceanography and optics, with much of the interest being targeted towards their physical origins and likelihood of occurrence. Here,…

Quantum Physics · Physics 2022-07-20 A. R. C. Buarque , W. S. Dias , F. A. B. F. de Moura , M. L. Lyra , G. M. A. Almeida

We report on the experimental observation of a transition from a dispersive wave turbulence regime to a nondispersive regime involving shock waves on the surface of a fluid. We use a magnetic fluid in a canal subjected to an external…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-02-01 Guillaume Ricard , Eric Falcon

Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban

On the grounds of both widely known experimental and numerical data of the strain-rate tensor statistical properties in the fully developed incompressible turbulent flow and the integral transformations deduced in the article, some…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-11-24 A. V. Kopyev , K. P. Zybin

Local regions of anomalous particle dispersion, and intermittent events that occur in turbulent flows can greatly influence the global statistical description of the flow. These local behaviors can be identified and analyzed by comparing…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-08-26 J. Pratt , A. Busse , W. -C. Mueller , S. C. Chapman , N. W. Watkins

The impact of shoaling on linear water waves is well-known, but it has only been recently found to significantly amplify both the intensity and frequency of rogue waves in nonlinear irregular wave trains atop coastal shoals. At least…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-11-20 Jie Zhang , Saulo Mendes , Michel Benoit , Jérôme Kasparian

The issue of accounting of the wave breaking phenomenon in direct numerical simulations of oceanic waves is discussed. It is emphasized that this problem is crucial for the deterministic description of waves, and also for the dynamical…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-04-04 Alexey Slunyaev , Anna Kokorina

Rogue waves are extreme and rare fluctuations of the wave field that have been discussed in many physical systems. Their presence substantially influences the statistical properties of an incoherent wave field. Their understanding is…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2018-01-24 Rebecca El Koussaifi , Alexey Tikan , Alessandro Toffoli , Stephane Randoux , Pierre Suret , Miguel Onorato

Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-07-30 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ivan Veselić , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

We show that anomalous diffusion can result when the steps of a random walk are not statistically independent. We present an algorithm that counts all the possible paths of particles diffusing on random graphs with arbitrary degree…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2007-05-23 Joseph Snider , Clare C. Yu

Based on boundary conditions and dispersion relations, the anomalous propagation of waves incident from regular isotropic media into quasiisotropic media is investigated. It is found that the anomalous negative refraction, anomalous total…

Optics · Physics 2007-05-23 Hailu Luo , Weixing Shu , Fei Li , Zhongzhou Ren