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A unidirectional reduction of the deep-water surface gravity wave problem is derived in physical space using real variables. By employing a near-identity canonical transformation, cubic interactions are eliminated from the Hamiltonian, with…
Equations relating the pressure at a horizontal seabed, the free-surface profile and the surface-pressure are derived for two-dimensional irrotational steady water waves with arbitrary pressure at the free surface. Special cases include…
This paper introduces a novel boundary integral equation (BIE) method for the numerical solution of problems of planewave scattering by periodic line arrays of two-dimensional penetrable obstacles. Our approach is built upon a direct BIE…
The Euler's equations describe the motion of inviscid fluid. In the case of shallow water, when a perturbative asymtotic expansion of the Euler's equations is taken (to a certain order of smallness of the scale parameters), relations to…
A comparison theorem is proved for a pair of solutions that satisfy in a weak sense opposite differential inequalities with nonlinearity of the form $f (u)$ with $f$ belonging to the class $L^p_{loc}$. The solutions are assumed to have…
We consider 2D free surface gravity waves in prismatic channels with bathymetric variations uniquely in the transverse direction. Starting from the Saint-Venant equations (shallow water equations) we derive a 1D transverse averaged model…
The study points out that the traditional solutions to wave equation of dissipative wave and motion equation of block for a multi-degree-of-freedom mass spring damper system are the possible solutions, which are not necessarily objective…
We study here the propagation of long waves in the presence of vorticity. In the irrotational framework, the Green-Naghdi equations (also called Serre or fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations) are the standard model for the propagation of…
Exact Green's functions related to Dirac particle submitted to the combination of Aharonov-Bohm and Coulomb fields in (2+1) coordinate space are analytically calculated via path integral formalism in both global and local representations.…
The coupled motion is investigated for a mechanical system consisting of water and a body freely floating in it. Water occupies either a half-space or a layer of constant depth into which an infinitely long surface-piercing cylinder is…
The topographical scattering of gravity waves is investigated using a spectral energy balance equation that accounts for first order wave-bottom Bragg scattering. This model represents the bottom topography and surface waves with spectra,…
To investigate the formation mechanism of energy spectra of internal waves in the oceans, direct numerical simulations are performed. The simulations are based on the reduced dynamical equations of rotating stratified turbulence. In the…
The one dimensional wave equation serves as a basic model for imaging modalities such as seismic which utilize acoustic data reflected back from a layered medium. In 1955 Peterson et al. described a single scattering approximation for the…
This article describes the use of algebraic methods in a phase plane analysis of ordinary differential equations. The method is illustrated by the study of capillary-gravity steady surface waves propagating in shallow water. We consider the…
In the present article we consider the problem of wave interaction with a partially immersed, but floating body. We assume that the motion of the body is prescribed. The general mathematical formulation for this problem is presented in the…
This study starts with balances deduced by Baumert and Peters (2004, 2005) from results of stratified-shear experiments made in channels and wind tunnels by Itsweire (1984) and Rohr and Van Atta (1987), and of free-decay experiments in a…
With only a few exceptions, the numerical simulation of cosmic and laboratory hydromagnetic dynamos has been carried out in the framework of the differential equation method. However, the integral equation method is known to provide robust…
In this fluid dynamics video, we present the first time-resolved measurements of the oscillatory velocity field induced by swimming unicellular microorganisms. Confinement of the green alga C. reinhardtii in stabilized thin liquid films…
The Dirichlet problem for the wave equation is a classical example of a problem which is not well-posed. Nevertheless, it has been used to model internal waves oscillating sinusoidally in time, in various situations, standing internal waves…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…