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Accurate mapping of ocean bathymetry is a multi-faceted process, needed for safe and efficient navigation on shipping routes and for predicting tsunami waves. Currently available bathymetry data does not always provide the resolution to…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-03-12 N. K. -R. Kevlahan , R. A. Khan

We propose a locally adaptive non-hydrostatic model and apply it to wave propagation generated by a moving bottom. This model is based on the non-hydrostatic extension of the shallow water equations (SWE) with a quadratic pressure relation,…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-05-26 Kemal Firdaus , Jörn Behrens

Shallow water equations are extensively considered in the domains of oceans, atmospheric modelling, and engineering research (Franca et al., 2022), which play significant roles in floods and tsunami governance. Nonetheless, the accurate…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-09-22 Ruijia Yu

It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2010-02-22 M. B. Erdogan , N. Tzirakis , V. Zharnitsky

In the present study, we propose a modified version of the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (Saint-Venant or NSWE) for irrotational surface waves in the case when the bottom undergoes some significant variations in space and time. The…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Didier Clamond

For oceanographic applications, probabilistic forecasts typically have to deal with i) high-dimensional complex models, and ii) very sparse spatial observations. In search-and-rescue operations at sea, for instance, the short-term…

Applications · Statistics 2023-02-15 Florian Beiser , Håvard Heitlo Holm , Jo Eidsvik

The Shallow Water Moment Equations (SWME) are an extension of the Shallow Water Equations (SWE) for improved modelling of free-surface flows. In contrast to the SWE, the SWME incorporate vertical velocity profile information. The SWME…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2026-03-03 Mieke Daemen , Julio Careaga , Zhenning Cai , Julian Koellermeier

In-situ ocean wave observations are critical to improve model skill and validate remote sensing wave measurements. Historically, such observations are extremely sparse due to the large costs and complexity of traditional wave buoys and…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-03-11 Pieter B. Smit , Isabel A. Houghton , Kalina Jordanova , Thomas Portwood , Evan Shapiro , David Clark , Michael Sosa , Tim T. Janssen

We study pointwise convergence of the solution to the elastic wave equation to the initial data which lies in the Sobolev spaces. We prove that the solution converges along every lines to the initial data almost everywhere whenever the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-06-14 Chu-Hee Cho , Seongyeon Kim , Yehyun Kwon , Ihyeok Seo

Estimating spatial extremes from sparse observational networks produces uncertain return level maps, but dense output from physics-based simulation models is often available as a complementary data source. We develop a two-stage frequentist…

Methodology · Statistics 2026-03-04 Brian N. White , Brian Blanton , Rick Luettich , Richard L. Smith

Utilizing the information in observations of a complex system to make accurate predictions through a quantitative model when observations are completed at time $T$, requires an accurate estimate of the full state of the model at time $T$.…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2014-05-13 Zhe An , Daniel Rey , Henry D. I. Abarbanel

This article is devoted to the proof of the well-posedness of a model describing waves propagating in shallow water in horizontal dimension $d=2$ and in the presence of a fixed partially immersed object. We first show that this…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-06-28 David Lannes , Tatsuo Iguchi

We establish sharp regional observability results for solutions of the wave equation in a bounded domain of $\Omega \subset \mathbb{R}^n$, in case where the geometric control condition is not satisfied. Assuming that the waves are observed…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-10-20 Belhassen Dehman , Sylvain Ervedoza an Enrique Zuazua

A variational data assimilation technique was used to estimate optimal discretization of interpolation operators and derivatives in the nodes adjacent to the rigid boundary. Assimilation of artificially generated observational data in the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2012-12-17 Eugene Kazantsev

We study the stabilization and the wellposedness of solutions of the wave equation with subcritical semilinearities and locally distributed nonlinear dissipation. The novelty of this paper is that we deal with the difficulty that the main…

We rigorously justify in 3D the main asymptotic models used in coastal oceanography, including: shallow-water equations, Boussinesq systems, Kadomtsev-Petviashvili (KP) approximation, Green-Naghdi equations, Serre approximation and…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-03-08 Borys Alvarez-Samaniego , David Lannes

In this paper, we review the history and current state-of-the-art in the modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves. For the sake of conciseness of this review, we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Zinaida Fedotova , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

This paper applies variational data assimilation to inundation problems governed by the shallow water equations with wetting and drying. The objective of the assimilation is to recover an unknown time-varying wave profile at an open ocean…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-06-07 S. W Funke , P. E Farrell , M. D. Piggott

We apply two data assimilation (DA) methods, a smoother and a filter, and a model-free machine learning (ML) shallow network to forecast two weakly turbulent systems. We analyse the effect of the spatial sparsity of observations on accuracy…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-07-16 Vikrant Gupta , Yuanqing Chen , Minping Wan

The shallow water equations (SWE) model a variety of geophysical flows. Flows in channels with rectangular cross sections may be modelled with a simplified one-dimensional SWE with varying width. Among other model parameters, information…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-04-08 Miguel Angel Moreles , Gerardo Hernandez-Duenas , Pedro Gonzalez-Casanova
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