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The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-12-19 Saulo Mendes , Jérôme Kasparian

We numerically study nonlinear phenomena related to the dynamics of traveling wave solutions of the Serre equations including the stability, the persistence, the interactions and the breaking of solitary waves. The numerical method utilizes…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2020-02-20 Dimitrios Mitsotakis , Denys Dutykh , John D. Carter

We present laboratory experiments of surface wave turbulence excited by paddles in the deep water regime. The free surface is seeded with buoyant particles that are advected and dispersed by the flow. Positions and velocities of the…

The propagation of focused wave groups in intermediate water depth and the shoaling zone is experimentally and numerically considered in this paper. The experiments are carried out in a two-dimensional wave flume and wave trains derived…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Iskander Abroug , Nizar Abcha , Denys Dutykh , Armelle Jarno , François Marin

The influence of forward speed on stochastic free-surface crossing, in a Gaussian wave field, is investigated. The case of a material point moving with a constant forward speed is considered; the wave field is assumed stationary in time,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2021-06-24 Romain Hascoët , Nicolas Raillard , Nicolas Jacques

The time evolution emanating from "internal dam-break" initial conditions is studied for a class of models of stratified Euler fluids in configurations close to two-homogeneous layers separated by a thin diffused interface. Direct numerical…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-03-28 Shengqian Chen

Numerical simulations of the unidirectional random waves are performed within the Korteweg -de Vries equation to investigate the statistical properties of surface gravity waves in shallow water. Nonlinear evolution shows the relaxation of…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Anna Kokorina , Efim Pelinovsky

Wave impact and run-up onto vertical obstacles are among the most important phenomena which must be taken into account in the design of coastal structures. From linear wave theory, we know that the wave amplitude on a vertical wall is twice…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-05-26 Francesco Carbone , Denys Dutykh , John M. Dudley , Frédéric Dias

Spin waves have been studied experimentally and by simulations in 1000 nm side equilateral triangular Permalloy dots in the Buckle state (B, with in-plane field along the triangle base) and the Y state (Y, with in-plane field perpendicular…

Mesoscale and Nanoscale Physics · Physics 2014-06-30 A. Lara , V. Metlushko , M. Garcia-Hernandez , F. G. Aliev

Prediction is a central goal and a yet-unresolved challenge in the investigation of oceanic rogue waves. Here we define a horizon of predictability for oceanic rogue waves and derive, via extensive computational experiments, the first…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-07-02 Reza Alam

Scroll waves are three-dimensional analogs of spiral waves. The linear stability spectrum of untwisted and twisted scroll waves is computed for a two-variable reaction-diffusion model of an excitable medium. Different bands of modes are…

Condensed Matter · Physics 2007-05-23 Herve Henry , Vincent Hakim

Stochastic wind sea is an intermediate small-scale physical process responsible for the state of the atmospheric boundary layer and the water upper layer, having dynamics of all scales. To describe behavior of this system, one could use the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2010-09-13 Vladislav Polnikov

A spectrogram of a ship wake is a heat map that visualises the time-dependent frequency spectrum of surface height measurements taken at a single point as the ship travels by. Spectrograms are easy to compute and, if properly interpreted,…

An experimental study of the dynamics and droplet production in three mechanically generated plunging breaking waves is presented in this two-part paper. In the present paper (Part 1), the dynamics of the three breakers are studied through…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-08-09 Martin A. Erinin , Xinan Liu , Sophie D. Wang , James H. Duncan

Modulation instability, rogue wave and spectral analysis are investigated for the nonlinear Schrodinger equation with the higher-order terms. The modulation instability distribution characteristics from the sixth-order to the eighth-order…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2020-06-24 Yunfei Yue , Lili Huang , Yong Chen

Rogue waves are solitary waves with extreme amplitudes, which appear to be a ubiquitous phenomenon in nonlinear wave propagation, with the requirement for a nonlinearity being their only unifying characteristics. While many mechanisms have…

The description of complex wave processes, in addition to the shoaling problem, is often cumbersome even for the evolution of regular waves. For reflection under the regime of wave breaking, the surf similarity is generally accepted as the…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2025-08-27 Jie Zhang , Michel Benoit , Saulo Mendes

We study deep water ocean wind-driven waves in strait, with wind directed orthogonally to the shore, through exact Hasselmann equation. Despite of "dissipative" shores - we do not include any reflection from the coast lines - we show that…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-05-14 Andrei Pushkarev , Vladimir Zakharov

Rogue waves are abnormally large waves which appear unexpectedly and have attracted considerable attention, particularly in recent years. The one space, one time (1+1) nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation is often used to model rogue waves; it…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2021-09-14 Mark J. Ablowitz , Justin T. Cole

In this letter,the designable integrability(DI) of the variable coefficient derivative nonlinear Schr\"odinger equation (VCDNLSE) is shown by construction of an explicit transformation which maps VCDNLSE to the usual derivative nonlinear…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2012-02-07 Shuwei Xu , Jingsong He , Lihong Wang