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In this paper, we review the history and current state-of-the-art in the modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves. For the sake of conciseness of this review, we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Gayaz Khakimzyanov , Denys Dutykh , Zinaida Fedotova , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

Dispersive effects during long wave run-up on a plane beach are studied. We take an advantage of experimental data collection of different wave types (single pulses, sinusoidal waves, bi-harmonic waves, and frequency modulated wave trains)…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Ahmed Abdalazeez , Ira Didenkulova , Denys Dutykh

We derive and analyze in the framework of the mild-slope approximation a new double-layer Boussinesq-type model which is linearly and nonlinearly accurate up to deep water. Assuming the flow to be irrotational, we formulate the problem in…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2009-07-01 Florent Chazel , Michel Benoit , Alexandre Ern , Serge Piperno

We prove a long time existence result for the solutions of a two-dimensional Boussinesq system modeling the propagation of long, weakly nonlinear water waves. This system is exceptional in the sense that it is the only linearly well-posed…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-09-08 Jean-Claude Saut , Li Xu

The aim of this paper is to present a survey and a detailed numerical study on a remarkable Boussinesq system describing weakly nonlinear, long surface water waves. In the one-dimensional case, this system can be viewed as a dispersive…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-03-20 C. Klein , J. -C. Saut

In this work we study the generation of water waves by an underwater sliding mass. The wave dynamics are assumed to fell into the shallow water regime. However, the characteristic wavelength of the free surface motion is generally smaller…

Geophysics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis , Sonya Beysel , Nina Shokina

This study deals with higher-ordered asymptotic equations for the water-waves problem. We considered the higher-order/extended Boussinesq equations over a flat bottom topography in the well-known long wave regime. Providing an existence and…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-02-03 Bashar Bhorbatly , Ralph Lteif , Samer Israwi , Stéphane Gerbi

Boussinesq equation belongs to Korteweg-de Vries kind of equations (Han & Yarkony, 2011). Equation describes the motion of long waves in two dimensions under the gravitation (Han & Yarkony, 2011). Here, we differentiate u = u(x, t) to the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2015-04-14 Dana Seilova , Olzhas Akbayev , Yerkezhan Assylbek , Akzhan Bakibayeva

In this work, a novel Boussinesq system is put forward. The system is naturally nonlinearly entropy/energy-stable, and is designed for problems with sharply varying bathymetric features. The system is flexible and allows tuning of the…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-02-21 Magnus Svärd , Henrik Kalisch

Within the framework of Lagrangian variables, we develop a method for deriving explicit solutions to the 2D Boussinesq equations using harmonic mapping theory. By reformulating the characterization of flow solutions described by harmonic…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-08-04 Jian Li , Shaojie Yang

Considered here are Boussinesq systems of equations of surface water wave theory over a variable bottom. A simplified such Boussinesq system is derived and solved numerically by the standard Galerkin-finite element method. We study by…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-09-15 Dimitrios Mitsotakis

A one-dimensional long-wave model of an unsteady three-layer flow of a stratified fluid under a lid is proposed, taking into account turbulent mixing in the intermediate layer. In the Boussinesq approximation, the equations of motion are…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-12-10 Alexander Chesnokov , Sergey Gavrilyuk , Valery Liapidevskii

In this paper, we derive asymptotic models for the propagation of two and three-dimensional gravity waves at the free surface and the interface between two layers of immiscible fluids of different densities, over an uneven bottom. We assume…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-11-18 Vincent Duchene

We study the behavior of shallow water waves propagating over bathymetry that varies periodically in one direction and is constant in the other. Plane waves traveling along the constant direction are known to evolve into solitary waves, due…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-05-21 David I. Ketcheson , Giovanni Russo

The movement of water waves is a topic of interest to researchers from different areas. While their propagation is described by Euler equations, there are instances where simplified models can also provide accurate approximations. A…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-12-27 L. G. Martins , M. V. Flamarion , R. Ribeiro-Jr

A generalized version of the $abcd$-Boussinesq class of systems is derived to accommodate variable bottom topography in two-dimensional space. This extension allows for the conservation of suitable energy functionals in some cases and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-06-19 Samer Israwi , Youssef Khalifeh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis

In this chapter, we illustrate the advantage of variational principles for modeling water waves from an elementary practical viewpoint. The method is based on a `relaxed' variational principle, i.e., on a Lagrangian involving as many…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-12-16 Didier Clamond , Denys Dutykh

The aim of this paper is to survey and complete, mostly by numerical simulations, results on a remarkable Boussinesq system describing weakly nonlinear, long surface water waves. It is the only member of the so-called (abcd) family of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-02-28 C. Klein , J. -C. Saut

We consider the `classical' Boussinesq system in one space dimension and its symmetric analog. These systems model two-way propagation of nonlinear, dispersive long waves of small amplitude on the surface of an ideal fluid in a uniform…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2010-08-26 D. C. Antonopoulos , V. A. Dougalis

This manuscript is devoted to the modelling of water waves in the deep water regime with some emphasis on the underlying variational structures. The present article should be considered as a review of some existing models and modelling…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Didier Clamond , Marx Chhay