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By means of the direct numerical simulation of directional waves on the surface of deep water it is shown that extreme waves can exhibit such asymmetry that the occurrence of deeper troughs is several times more likely on the wave rear…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-09-14 Alexey V. Slunyaev , Anna V. Kokorina

The appearance of rogue waves in deep sea is investigated using the modified nonlinear Schr\"odinger (MNLS) equation in one spatial-dimension with random initial conditions that are assumed to be normally distributed, with a spectrum…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-01-24 Giovanni Dematteis , Tobias Grafke , Eric Vanden-Eijnden

Rogue wave formation and enhancement over coastal areas have been documented over the last decade. However, this recent knowledge is in apparent contradiction with the established observation of sub-Gaussian wave statistics near shallow…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-02-07 Saulo Mendes , Yuchen He , Jérôme Kasparian , Amin Chabchoub

Bathymetric changes have been experimentally shown to affect the occurrence of rogue waves. We recently derived a non-homogeneous correction to the spectral analysis, allowing to describe the evolution of the rogue wave probability over a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-07-19 Saulo Mendes , Jérôme Kasparian

In this essay we give an overview on the problem of rogue or freak wave formation in the ocean. The matter of the phenomenon is a sporadic occurrence of unexpectedly high waves on the sea surface. These waves cause serious danger for…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-30 Alexey Slunyaev , Ira Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky

Formation of giant waves in sea states with two spectral maxima, centered at close wave vectors ${\bf k}_0\pm\Delta {\bf k}/2$ in the Fourier plane, is numerically simulated using the fully nonlinear model for long-crested water waves [V.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-05-13 V. P. Ruban

We investigate the statistics of rogue waves occurring in the inverse cascade of surface gravity wave turbulence. In such statistically homogeneous, stationary and isotropic wave fields, low-frequency waves are generated by nonlinear…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-06-15 Guillaume Michel , Félicien Bonnefoy , Guillaume Ducrozet , Eric Falcon

Ocean rogue waves are large and suddenly appearing surface gravity waves, which may cause severe damage to ships and other maritime structures. Despite years of research, the exact origin of rogue waves is still disputed. Linear…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-07-30 Simon Birkholz , Carsten Brée , Ivan Veselić , Ayhan Demircan , Günter Steinmeyer

Rogue waves are associated with various ocean processes, both at the coast and in the open ocean. In either zone, inhomogeneities in the wave field caused by shoaling, crossing seas or current interactions disturb wave statistics,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2025-06-11 Saulo Mendes , Ina Teutsch , Jérôme Kasparian

The numerical simulation of the nonlinear dynamics of the sea surface has shown that the collision of two groups of relatively low waves with close but noncollinear wave vectors (two or three waves in each group with a steepness of about…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-02-12 V. P. Ruban

The evolution of unidirectional nonlinear sea surface waves is calculated numerically by means of solutions of the Euler equations. The wave dynamics corresponds to quasi-equilibrium states characterized by JONSWAP spectra. The…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-17 Alexey Slunyaev , Anna Sergeeva , Ira Didenkulova

Numerical simulations of the recently derived fully nonlinear equations of motion for weakly three-dimensional water waves [V.P. Ruban, Phys. Rev. E {\bf 71}, 055303(R) (2005)] with quasi-random initial conditions are reported, which show…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 Victor P. Ruban

Recent results of numerical simulations of fully nonlinear evolutionary equations for long-crested deep-water waves are discussed, where formation of extreme waves was observed. Several examples demonstrate that three-dimensionality of the…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-08-19 V. P. Ruban

We review recent progress in modeling the probability distribution of wave heights in the deep ocean as a function of a small number of parameters describing the local sea state. Both linear and nonlinear mechanisms of rogue wave formation…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2012-07-11 L. H. Ying , Z. Zhuang , E. J. Heller , L. Kaplan

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

The shoaling of surface gravity waves has been acknowledged as a mechanism of rogue wave formation. This problem is generally reduced to water waves passing over a step, but non-equilibrium physics allows finite slopes to be considered.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-12-19 Saulo Mendes , Jérôme Kasparian

Prediction is a central goal and a yet-unresolved challenge in the investigation of oceanic rogue waves. Here we define a horizon of predictability for oceanic rogue waves and derive, via extensive computational experiments, the first…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-07-02 Reza Alam

In this paper, we present a novel approach for the prediction of rogue waves in oceans using statistical machine learning methods. Since the ocean is composed of many wave systems, the change from a bimodal or multimodal directional…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2020-03-17 Pujan Pokhrel , Elias Ioup , Md Tamjidul Hoque , Julian Simeonov , Mahdi Abdelguerfi

We study on dynamics of high-order rogue wave in two-component coupled nonlinear Schr\"{o}dinger equations. We find four fundamental rogue waves can emerge for second-order vector RW in the coupled system, in contrast to the high-order ones…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2015-01-26 Liming Ling , Boling Guo , Li-Chen Zhao

Rogue waves are extreme and rare fluctuations of the wave field that have been discussed in many physical systems. Their presence substantially influences the statistical properties of an incoherent wave field. Their understanding is…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2018-01-24 Rebecca El Koussaifi , Alexey Tikan , Alessandro Toffoli , Stephane Randoux , Pierre Suret , Miguel Onorato
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