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In this paper we investigate the qualitative behaviour of the pressure function beneath an extreme Stokes wave over infinite depth. The presence of a stagnation point at the wave-crest of an extreme Stokes wave introduces a number of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-03-23 Tony Lyons

In this paper we prove that the pressure beneath an extreme Stokes wave over finite depth is strictly increasing with depth. Additionally it is shown that the pressure decreases in moving between a crest-line and trough-line, while it is…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2016-02-01 Tony Lyons

In this paper, we investigate the maximum and minimum of the dynamic pressure in a regular wave train with underlying currents and infinite depth respectively. The result is obtained using maximum principles in combination with exploiting…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2017-01-03 Lili Fan , Hongjun Gao , Lei Mao

We study the dynamic pressure in an irrotational solitary wave propagating at the surface of water over a flat bed, under the influence of gravity. We consider the nonlinear regime, that is, the case of waves of moderate to large amplitude.…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2017-01-12 François Genoud

Periodic water waves of permanent form traveling at constant speed, the so-called Stokes waves, are studied in water of fixed finite depth using methods previously used in water of infinite depth. We apply our methods to waves of varying…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2026-04-01 Eleanor Byrnes , Bernard Deconinck , Anastassiya Semenova

We study the limiting behavior of large-amplitude standing waves on deep water using high-resolution numerical simulations in double and quadruple precision. While periodic traveling waves approach Stokes's sharply crested extreme wave in…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2011-10-27 Jon Wilkening

We study the stability of Stokes waves on a free surface of an ideal fluid of infinite depth. For small steepness the modulational instability dominates the dynamics, but its growth rate is vastly surpassed for steeper waves by an…

This paper presents a comprehensive analysis of two-dimensional water waves characterized by a significant adverse constant vorticity over flows without stagnation points. Surprisingly, we discover qualitative distinctions between this…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-04-09 Evgeniy Lokharu

Periodic traveling waves are numerically computed in a constant vorticity flow subject to the force of gravity. The Stokes wave problem is formulated via a conformal mapping as a nonlinear pseudo-differential equation, involving a periodic…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-02-22 Sergey A. Dyachenko , Vera Mikyoung Hur

We present the results of Direct Numerical Simulations (DNS) of turbulent flows seeded with millions of passive inertial particles. The maximum Taylor's Reynolds number is around 200. We consider particles much heavier than the carrier flow…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-11 M. Cencini , J. Bec , L. Biferale , G. Boffetta , A. Celani , A. S. Lanotte , S. Musacchio , F. Toschi

The aim of this note is to examine the efficacy of a recently developed approach to the recovery of nonlinear water waves from pressure measurements at the seabed, by applying it to the celebrated extreme Stokes wave.

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-10-28 Didier Clamond , David Henry

The kinematic properties of unsteady highly non-linear 3D wave groups have been investigated using a numerical wave tank. Although carrier wave speeds based on zero-crossing analysis remain within +-7% of linear theory predictions, crests…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-08-26 X. Barthelemy , M. L. Banner , W. L. Peirson , F. Dias , M. Allis

Stokes wave is a finite amplitude periodic gravity wave propagating with constant velocity in inviscid fluid. Complex analytical structure of Stokes wave is analyzed using a conformal mapping of a free fluid surface of Stokes wave into the…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2016-06-30 Pavel M. Lushnikov

A new type of steady steep two-dimensional irrotational symmetric periodic gravity waves on inviscid incompressible fluid of infinite depth is revealed. We demonstrate that these waves have sharper crests in comparison with the Stokes waves…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-01-28 Vasyl' Lukomsky , Ivan Gandzha , Dmytro Lukomsky

We compare experiments and direct numerical simulations to evaluate the accuracy of the Stokes-drag model, which is used widely in studies of inertial particles in turbulence. We focus on statistics at the dissipation scale and on extreme…

In periodic wave motion, particles beneath the wave undergo a drift in the direction of wave propagation, a phenomenon known as Stokes drift. While extensive research has been conducted on Stokes drift in water wave flows, its counterpart…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-07-18 Luiz P. Palacio , Marcelo V. Flamarion , Tao Gao , Roberto Ribeiro-Jr

We consider the two-dimensional problem for steady water waves with vorticity on water of finite depth. While neglecting the effects of surface tension we construct connected families of large amplitude periodic waves approaching the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-12-23 Vladimir Kozlov , Evgeniy Lokharu

The Stokes wave problem in a constant vorticity flow is formulated via a conformal mapping as a modified Babenko equation. The associated linearized operator is self-adjoint, whereby efficiently solved by the Newton-conjugate gradient…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-04-12 Sergey A. Dyachenko , Vera Mikyoung Hur

While some works have investigated the particle trajectories and stagnation points beneath solitary waves with constant vorticity, little is known about the pressure beneath such waves. To address this gap, we investigate numerically the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-02-01 Eduardo M. Castro , Marcelo V. Flamarion , Roberto Ribeiro-Jr

Complex analytical structure of Stokes wave for two-dimensional potential flow of the ideal incompressible fluid with free surface and infinite depth is analyzed. Stokes wave is the fully nonlinear periodic gravity wave propagating with the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-06-03 S. A. Dyachenko , P. M. Lushnikov , A. O. Korotkevich
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