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The propagation and transformation of water waves over varying bathymetries is a subject of fundamental interest to ocean, coastal and harbor engineers. The specific bathymetry considered in this paper consists of one or two, naturally…

By performing two parallel numerical experiments -- solving the dynamical Hamiltonian equations and solving the Hasselmann kinetic equation -- we examined the applicability of the theory of weak turbulence to the description of the time…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2011-01-04 V. E. Zakharov , A. O. Korotkevich , A. Pushkarev , D. Resio

A novel mathematical nonlinear theory of surface gravity waves in deep water is presented, in which analytical analysis of the classical nonlinear equations of fluid dynamics is performed under less restrictive assumptions than those…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-02-24 Ilia Mindlin

Vortical flows in shallow water interact with long surface waves by virtue of the nonlinear terms of the fluid equations. Analytical formulae are derived that quantify the spontaneous generation of such waves by unsteady vorticity as well…

chao-dyn · Physics 2009-10-22 Enrique cerda , Fernando Lund

This paper presents a new method allowing for a numerical study of the interaction between a submerged solid structure and a current with surface waves. The method involves a Navier-Stokes equation solver for a two-fluid formulation with…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-09-01 Wojciech Aniszewski , Valentin Ageorges , Gaele Perret , Vincent Moureau

In this work we study the generation of water waves by an underwater sliding mass. The wave dynamics are assumed to fell into the shallow water regime. However, the characteristic wavelength of the free surface motion is generally smaller…

Geophysics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis , Sonya Beysel , Nina Shokina

The propagation of surface water waves interacting with a current and an uneven bottom is studied. Such a situation is typical for ocean waves where the winds generate currents in the top layer of the ocean. The role of the bottom…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2019-02-19 Alan C. Compelli , Rossen I. Ivanov , Calin I. Martin , Michail D. Todorov

The evolution of an instability at the interface of active and passive media is considered. An asymptotic form of a collision integral is found and the limitations of hydrodynamic approach are determined. A growth increment of small…

Plasma Physics · Physics 2013-12-23 Sergey Kuratov , Andrey Mikulin

In this study we give a characterization of semi-geostrophic turbulence by performing freely decaying simulations for the case of constant uniform potential vorticity, a set of equations known as surface semi-geostrophic approximation. The…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-03-08 Francesco Ragone , Gualtiero Badin

It is shown that spatially periodic one-dimensional surface waves in shallow water behave almost linearly, provided large part of the energy is contained in sufficiently high frequencies. The amplitude is not required to be small (apart…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2010-02-22 M. B. Erdogan , N. Tzirakis , V. Zharnitsky

This paper investigates the interaction of plane incident waves with a wave farm in the open ocean. The farm consists of a periodic array of large flap-type wave energy converters. A linear inviscid potential-flow model, already developed…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2012-09-28 Emiliano Renzi , Frederic Dias

We consider a layer of an inviscid fluid with free surface which is subject to vertical high-frequency vibrations. We derive three asymptotic systems of equations that describe slowly evolving (in comparison with the vibration frequency)…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-11-22 Konstantin Ilin

A new method is proposed to recover the water-wave surface elevation from pressure data obtained at the bottom of the fluid. The new method requires the numerical solution of a nonlocal nonlinear equation relating the pressure and the…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2011-12-09 Katie Oliveras , Vishal Vasan , Bernard Deconinck , Diane Henderson

It has been shown that a water drop can bounce persistently, when thrown on a super-hydrophobic substrate. We present here scaling arguments which allow us to predict the maximal deformation and the contact time of the drop. This approach…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2009-11-07 K. Okumura , F. Chevy , C. Clanet , D. Richard , D. Quere

The impact of a wedge-shaped body on the free surface of a weightless inviscid incompressible liquid is considered. Both symmetrical and unsymmetrical entries at constant velocity are dealt with. The differential problem corresponds to the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2009-01-23 Nicola de Divitiis , Luciano M. de Socio

A macroscopic hydrodynamic system that couples a particle and a wave has recently renewed interest in the question as to what extent a classical system may reproduce quantum phenomena. Here we investigate single-particle diffraction with a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-10-31 Giuseppe Pucci , Antoine Bellaigue , Alessia Cirimele , Giuseppe Ali , Anand U. Oza

We investigate wind wave growth by direct numerical simulations solving for the two phase Navier-Stokes equations. We consider ratio of the wave speed $c$ to wind friction velocity $u_*$ from $c/u_*=$ 2 to 8, i.e. in the slow to…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-11-08 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Luc Deike

Motion in a one-dimensional (1D) microfluidic array is simulated. Water droplets, dragged by flowing oil, are arranged in a single row, and due to their hydrodynamic interactions spacing between these droplets oscillates with a wave-like…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-05 Bin Liu , J. Goree , Yan Feng

The evolution of breaking waves propagating towards the shore and more specifically the run-up phase over the swash-zone for surface as well as for internal waves is considered. The study is based on a) laboratory run up experiments for…

Classical Physics · Physics 2008-02-01 Hubert Branger , Olivier Kimmoun , N. Gavrilov , Valery Liapidevskii , E. Pavlova

Models for fluid deformable surfaces provide valid theories to describe the dynamics of thin fluidic sheets of soft materials. To use such models in morphogenesis and development requires to incorporate active forces. We consider active…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2024-08-20 Maik Porrmann , Axel Voigt