Related papers: Surface waves on arbitrary vertically-sheared curr…
We investigate experimentally the influence of the liquid viscosity on the problem of the generation of waves by a turbulent wind at the surface of a liquid, extending the results of Paquier, Moisy and Rabaud [Phys. Fluids {\bf 27}, 122103…
For surface gravity waves propagating in shallow water, we propose a variant of the fully nonlinear Serre-Green-Naghdi equations involving a free parameter that can be chosen to improve the dispersion properties. The novelty here consists…
In this article we apply local bifurcation theory to prove the existence of small-amplitude steady periodic water waves, which propagate over a flat bed with a specified fixed mean-depth, and where the underlying flow has a discontinuous…
We study theoretically the capillary-gravity waves created at the water-air interface by a small two-dimensional perturbation when a depth-dependent current is initially present in the fluid. Assuming linear wave theory, we derive a general…
We report experimental observations of traveling waves in a pure fluid with a free surface situated in a long container submitted to a horizontal temperature gradient perpendicular to its large extension. Above a critical value of the…
We show the existence of periodic traveling waves at the free surface of a two dimensional, infinitely deep, and constant vorticity flow, under gravity, whose profiles are overhanging, including one which intersects itself to enclose a…
In this paper we discuss a theoretical model for the interfacial profiles of progressive non-linear waves which result from introducing a triangular obstacle, of finite height, attached to the bottom below the flow of a stratified, ideal,…
In this paper, we review the history and current state-of-the-art in the modelling of long nonlinear dispersive waves. For the sake of conciseness of this review, we omit the unidirectional models and focus especially on some classical and…
Scattering of waves due to a vertical array of equally-spaced cracks on a square lattice is studied. The convenience of Floquet periodicity reduces the study to that of scattering of specific wave-mode from single crack in a waveguide. The…
In classical continuum physics, a wave is a mechanical disturbance. Whether the disturbance is stationary or traveling and whether it is caused by the motion of atoms and molecules or the vibration of a lattice structure, a wave can be…
We investigate the propagation of gravitational waves in linearized Chern-Simons (CS) modified gravity by considering two nondynamical models for the coupling field $\theta$: (i) a domain wall and (ii) a surface layer of $\theta$, motivated…
Here we discuss some issues concerning the statistical properties of ocean surface waves. We show that, using the approach of weak turbulence theory, deviations from Gaussian statistics can be naturally included. In particular we discuss…
We present experimental and computational studies of the propagation of internal waves in a stratified fluid with an exponential density profile that models the deep ocean. The buoyancy frequency profile $N(z)$ (proportional to the square…
We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…
The effect of the presence of a finite impedance surface on the wave propagation properties of a two-dimensional periodic array of rigid cylinders with their axes perpendicular to the surface is both numerically and experimentally analyzed…
We consider 2D free surface gravity waves in prismatic channels with bathymetric variations uniquely in the transverse direction. Starting from the Saint-Venant equations (shallow water equations) we derive a 1D transverse averaged model…
We report experimental measurements of inertial waves generated by an oscillating cylinder in a rotating fluid. The two-dimensional wave takes place in a stationary cross-shaped wavepacket. Velocity and vorticity fields in a vertical plane…
The paper presents the study of waves in a structured geometrically chiral solid. A special attention is given to the analysis of the Bloch-Floquet waves in a doubly periodic high-contrast lattice containing tilted resonators. Dirac-like…
We formulate and solve a model problem of dispersion of dense granular materials in rapid shear flow down an incline. The effective dispersivity of the depth-averaged concentration of the dispersing powder is shown to vary as the P\'eclet…
In this paper we construct periodic capillarity-gravity water waves with an arbitrary bounded vorticity distribution. This is achieved by reexpressing, in the height function formulation of the water wave problem, the boundary condition…