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Related papers: Shear and depth-averaged Stokes drift under a Phil…

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A scroll wave in a very thin layer of excitable medium is similar to a spiral wave, but its behaviour is affected by the layer geometry. We identify the effect of sharp variations of the layer thickness, which is separate from filament…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2015-02-13 I. V. Biktasheva , H. Dierckx , V. N. Biktashev

Global observations of ocean swell, from satellite Synthetic Aperture Radar data, are used to estimate the dissipation of swell energy for a number of storms. Swells can be very persistent with energy e-folding scales exceeding 20,000 km.…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2009-11-13 Fabrice Ardhuin , Bertrand Chapron , Fabrice Collard

We investigate the all-penetrating drift velocities, due to surface wave motion in an effectively inviscid fluid that overlies a saturated porous bed of finite depth. Previous work in this area either neglects the large-scale flow between…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-08-05 Joseph J. Webber , Herbert E. Huppert

In this paper, we establish the existence of Stokes waves with piecewise smooth vorticity in a two-dimensional, infinitely deep fluid domain. These waves represent traveling water waves propagating over sheared currents in a semi-infinite…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-11-07 Changfeng Gui , Jun Wang , Wen Yang , Yong Zhang

When using valid foreground and signal models, the uncertainties on extracted signals in global 21-cm signal experiments depend principally on the overlap between signal and foreground models. In this paper, we investigate two strategies…

Instrumentation and Methods for Astrophysics · Physics 2020-07-22 Keith Tauscher , David Rapetti , Jack O. Burns

A new model other than the classical ones given by Airy, Stokes and Gerstner for the ocean surface wave is constructed. It leads to new understandings for the wave mechanisms: (1) A wave with bigger amplitude or smaller steepness travels…

General Physics · Physics 2017-05-16 Jin-Liang Wang

The effects of a large-scale shear on the energy spectrum of a passively advected scalar field are investigated. The shear is superimposed on a turbulent isotropic flow, yielding an Obukhov-Corrsin $k^{-5/3}$ scalar spectrum at small…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2009-11-10 A. Celani , M. Cencini , M. Vergassola , E. Villermaux , D. Vincenzi

I present the numerical computation of speed and direction of the drift of a spiral wave in an excitable medium in the presence of an electric field. In contrast to earlier results, the drift speed presents a strong variation close to the…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2007-05-23 Herve Henry

The phenomenon of Taylor or shear-induced dispersion of a non-passive scalar field in a pulsatile pipe flow is investigated, accounting for the scalar field's influence on fluid density and transport coefficients. By employing multiple…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-03-13 Prabakaran Rajamanickam , Adam D. Weiss

Stochastic Stokes' drift and hypersensitive transport driven by dichotomous noise are theoretically investigated. Explicit mathematical expressions for the asymptotic probability density and drift velocity are derived including the…

Statistical Mechanics · Physics 2007-05-23 I. Bena , R. Kawai , C. Van den Broeck , Katja Lindenberg

A generalization of the kinetic equation is proposed for explaining observed shapes of wind wave spectra. The approach allows to fix a critical uncertainty in modeling wind wave spectra using a condition of equilibrium of nonlinear transfer…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2015-02-26 Vladimir E. Zakharov , Sergei I. Badulin

In this work we prove that the shallow water flow, subject to strong wind forcing and linearized around an adequate stationary profile, develops for large times closed trajectories due to the propagation of Rossby waves, while Poincar\'e…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2019-12-19 Christophe Cheverry , Isabelle Gallagher , Thierry Paul , Laure Saint-Raymond

Periodic water waves of permanent form traveling at constant speed, the so-called Stokes waves, are studied in water of fixed finite depth using methods previously used in water of infinite depth. We apply our methods to waves of varying…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2026-04-01 Eleanor Byrnes , Bernard Deconinck , Anastassiya Semenova

Classical Stokes' drift is the small time-averaged drift velocity of suspended non-diffusing particles in a fluid due to the presence of a wave. We consider the effect of adding diffusion to the motion of the particles, and show in…

Classical Physics · Physics 2009-10-31 Kalvis M. Jansons , G. D. Lythe

We study the effect of surface gravity waves on the motion of inertial particles in an incompressible fluid. Using the multiple-scale technique, we perform an analytical calculation which allows us to predict the dynamics of such particles;…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2013-01-25 G. Boffetta , M. Martins Afonso , A. Mazzino , M. Onorato , F. Santamaria

The existence of periodic waves propagating downstream on the surface of a two-dimensional infinitely deep water under gravity is established for a general class of vorticities. When reformulated as an elliptic boundary value problem in a…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2009-12-02 Vera Mikyoung Hur

A generalized reciprocal theorem is used to relate the force and torque induced on a particle in an inertia-less fluid with small variation in viscosity to integrals involving Stokes flow fields and the spatial dependence of viscosity.…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-03-20 Arjun Sharma , Peter A. Bosler , Rama Govindarajan , Donald L. Koch

Traditional models of wormlike chains in shear flows at finite temperature approximate the equation of motion via finite difference discretization (bead and rod models). We introduce here a new method based on a spectral representation in…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2007-05-23 Chris H. Wiggins , Alberto Montesi , Matteo Pasquali

High-frequency wave propagation in near-inertial wave shear has been considered fundamental in setting the spectral character of the oceanic internal wave continuum and for transporting energy to wave-breaking. We compare idealized ray…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2023-10-27 Kurt L Polzin , Yuri V Lvov

We investigate how the extreme wave statistics of a windsea is modified by a following swell, by means of laboratory experiments and simulations using a High Order Spectral Method (HOSM) of long-crested sea. The windsea spectrum is kept…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2019-04-16 Susanne Støle-Hentschel , Karsten Trulsen Shkurte Olluri