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Process of the nonlinear deformation of the surface wave in shallow water is studied. Main attention is paid to the relation between the Fourier-spectrum and wave steepness. It is shown that the spectral harmonics of the initially sine wave…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2009-11-11 Irina Didenkulova , Narcisse Zahibo , Andrey Kurkin , Efim Pelinovsky

This manuscript concerns the dynamical interactions between wind and water waves, which are characterized through two-phase free interface problems for the Euler equations. We provide a comprehensive derivation on the linearized problems of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-08-04 Changfeng Gui , Sicheng Liu

Dispersive averaging effects are used to show that KdV equation with periodic boundary conditions possesses high frequency solutions which behave nearly linearly. Numerical simulations are presented which indicate high accuracy of this…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2016-11-25 M. B. Erdogan , N. Tzirakis , V. Zharnitsky

Polymer brushes are increasingly used to tailor surface physicochemistry for various applications such as wetting, adhesion of biological objects, implantable devices, etc. We perform Dissipative Particle Dynamics simulations to study the…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2015-10-01 Sofia Biagi , Lorenzo Rovigatti , Francesco Sciortino , Chaouqi Misbah

The shallow water equations (SWE) are a widely used model for the propagation of surface waves on the oceans. We consider the problem of optimally determining the initial conditions for the one-dimensional SWE in an unbounded domain from a…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-03-12 N. K. -R. Kevlahan , R. Khan , B. Protas

In this work we study oceanic waves in a shallow water flow subject to strong wind forcing and rotation, and linearized around a inhomogeneous (non zonal) stationary profile. This extends the study \cite{CGPS}, where the profile was assumed…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2010-11-22 Isabelle Gallagher , Thierry Paul , Laure Saint-Raymond

A new type of wave-mean flow interaction is identified and studied in which a small-amplitude, linear, dispersive modulated wave propagates through an evolving, nonlinear, large-scale fluid state such as an expansion (rarefaction) wave or a…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2019-08-06 T. Congy , G. A. El , M. A. Hoefer

Waves propagating through weakly disordered smooth linear media undergo a universal phenomenon called branched flow. Branched flow has been observed and studied experimentally in various systems by considering coherent waves. Recent…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-04-09 Josselin Garnier , Antonio Picozzi , Theo Torres

The choice of interface conditions for coupling free-flow and porous-medium flow systems is crucial in order to obtain accurate coupled flow models and precise numerical simulation results. Typically, the Stokes equations are considered in…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-07-15 Elissa Eggenweiler , Iryna Rybak

We investigate the interaction of waves with surface flows by considering the full set of conserved quantities, subtle but important surface elevation changes induced by wave packets and by directly considering the necessary forces to…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2014-08-26 Clifford Chafin

We study wave turbulence in shallow water flows in numerical simulations using two different approximations: the shallow water model, and the Boussinesq model with weak dispersion. The equations for both models were solved using periodic…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-17 P. Clark di Leoni , P. J. Cobelli , P. D. Mininni

The results of direct numerical simulation of plane-symmetric turbulence of water waves for potential flows within the framework of conformal variables taking into account low-frequency pumping and high-frequency viscous dissipation are…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-08-04 E. A. Kochurin , E. A. Kuznetsov

The two-dimensional free-boundary problem of steady periodic waves with vorticity is considered for water of finite depth. We investigate how flows with small-amplitude Stokes waves on the free surface bifurcate from a horizontal parallel…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2014-06-06 Vladimir Kozlov , Nikolay Kuznetsov

We study experimentally the propagation of internal waves in two different three-dimensional (3D) geometries, with a special emphasis on the refractive focusing due to the 3D reflection of obliquely incident internal waves on a slope. Both…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-02-10 G. Pillet , E. V. Ermanyuk , L. R. M. Maas , I. N. Sibgatullin , T. Dauxois

The modulational instability of nonlinearly interacting spatially incoherent Stokes waves is analyzed. Starting from a pair of nonlinear Schroedinger equations, we derive a coupled set of wave-kinetic equations by using the Wigner transform…

Chaotic Dynamics · Physics 2007-05-23 P. K. Shukla , M. Marklund , L. Stenflo

We investigate the occurrence of topologically protected waves in classical fluids confined on curved surfaces. Using a combination of topological band theory and real space analysis, we demonstrate the existence of a system-independent…

Soft Condensed Matter · Physics 2020-11-25 Richard Green , Jay Armas , Jan de Boer , Luca Giomi

Granular flows in a narrow pipe are studied numerically by the model taking account of hydrodynamic effects of fluid surrounding particles. In the simulations density waves are observed over the wide range of the Stokes number, which…

adap-org · Physics 2012-08-29 Kengo Ichiki

The matching conditions at the interface between two non-mixed fluids at rest are obtained directly using the equation of movement of the whole media. This is a non-usual point of view in hydrodynamics courses and our aim is to fix ideas…

Physics Education · Physics 2007-05-23 Arezky H. Rodriguez , J. Marin-Antuna , H. Rodriguez-Coppola

In this paper, we study the motion of the two dimensional inviscid incompressible, infinite depth water waves with point vortices in the fluid. We show that Taylor sign condition $-\frac{\partial P}{\partial \boldmath{n}}\geq 0$ can fail if…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2018-12-04 Qingtang Su

Motivated by numerically modeling surface waves for inviscid Euler equations, we analyze linear models for damped water waves and establish decay properties for the energy for sufficiently regular initial configurations. Our findings give…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2023-08-21 Thomas Alazard , Jeremy L. Marzuola , Jian Wang