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The majority of coastal flows are characterized by turbulence, rendering the application of shallow water equations an inadequate approach for their accurate description. This paper presents a theory for characterizing accelerated coastal…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-09-19 Arno Roland Ndengna Ngatcha

Until now the analysis of long wave runup on a plane beach has been focused on finding its maximum value, failing to capture the existence of resonant regimes. One-dimensional numerical simulations in the framework of the Nonlinear Shallow…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Themistoklis Stefanakis , Frédéric Dias , Denys Dutykh

The problem of the sea wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Key and novel moment here is the accounting of the asymmetric waves when the face slope steepness…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2009-11-11 I. Didenkulova , N. Zahibo , A. Kurkin , B. Levin , E. Pelinovsky , T. Soomere

In the present study, we propose a modified version of the Nonlinear Shallow Water Equations (Saint-Venant or NSWE) for irrotational surface waves in the case when the bottom undergoes some significant variations in space and time. The…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Didier Clamond

The problem of the long wave runup on a beach is discussed in the framework of the rigorous solutions of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. The key and novel moment here is the analysis of the runup of a certain class of asymmetric waves,…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-05-23 Irina Didenkulova , Efim Pelinovsky , Tarmo Soomere , Narcisse Zahibo

The runup of tsunami waves on the coasts of the barrow bays, channels and straits is studied in the framework of the nonlinear shallow water theory. Using the narrowness of the water channel, the one-dimensional equations are applied; they…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2016-09-08 Narcisse Zahibo , Efim Pelinovsky , Vladimir Golinko , Nataly Osipenko

In this paper we apply the approach of formal asymptotic expansions and perturbation theory to derive a new highly nonlinear shallow-water model from the full governing equations for two dimensional incompressible fluid with constant…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-01-17 Yu Liu , Xingxing Liu , Min Li

I describe a new algorithm for solving nonlinear wave equations. In this approach, evolution takes place on characteristic hypersurfaces. The algorithm is directly applicable to electromagnetic, Yang-Mills and gravitational fields and other…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2007-05-23 Jeffrey Winicour

We propose a locally adaptive non-hydrostatic model and apply it to wave propagation generated by a moving bottom. This model is based on the non-hydrostatic extension of the shallow water equations (SWE) with a quadratic pressure relation,…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2025-05-26 Kemal Firdaus , Jörn Behrens

In this study, we investigate the Shallow Water Equations incorporating source terms accounting for Manning friction and a non-flat bottom topology. Our primary focus is on developing and validating numerical schemes that serve a dual…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2023-10-24 Guanlan Huang , Sebastiano Boscarino , Tao Xiong

The Shallow Water Moment Equations (SWME) are an extension of the Shallow Water Equations (SWE) for improved modelling of free-surface flows. In contrast to the SWE, the SWME incorporate vertical velocity profile information. The SWME…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2026-03-03 Mieke Daemen , Julio Careaga , Zhenning Cai , Julian Koellermeier

Efficient simulation of nonlinear and dispersive free-surface flows governed by the incompressible Navier-Stokes equations remains a central challenge in ocean and coastal engineering. The computational bottleneck arises from solving a…

We present a new solution to the nonlinear shallow water equations and show that it accurately predicts the swash flow due to obliquely approaching bores in large-scale wave basin experiments. The solution is based on an application of…

A new Hamiltonian formulation for the fully nonlinear water-wave problem over variable bathymetry is derived, using an exact, vertical series expansion of the velocity potential, in conjunction with Luke's variational principle. The…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-04-14 Christos Papoutsellis , Gerassimos Athanassoulis

Shallow Water Moment Equations (SWME) are extensions to the well-known Shallow Water Equations (SWE) for the efficient modeling and numerical simulation of free-surface flows. While the SWE typically assume a depth-averaged vertical…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2026-02-03 Julian Koellermeier

In this paper, we investigate the wave solutions of a stochastic rotating shallow water model. This approximate model provides an interesting simple description of the interplay between waves and random forcing ensuing either from the wind…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-05-02 Etienne Mémin , Long Li , Noé Lahaye , Gilles Tissot , Bertrand Chapron

This work focuses on the numerical approximation of the Shallow Water Equations (SWE) using a Lagrange-Projection type approach. We propose to extend to this context recent implicit-explicit schemes developed in the framework of…

Numerical Analysis · Mathematics 2016-07-05 Christophe Chalons , Pierre Kestener , Samuel Kokh , Maxime Stauffert

Numerous codes are being developed to solve Shallow Water equations. Because there are used in hydraulic and environmental studies, their capability to simulate properly flow dynamics is critical to guarantee infrastructure and human…

The study of the process of catastrophic tsunami-type waves on the coast makes it possible to determine the destructive force of waves on the coast. In hydrodynamics, the one-dimensional theory of the run-up of non-linear waves on a flat…

A high-performance shooting algorithm is developed to compute time-periodic solutions of the free-surface Euler equations with spectral accuracy in double and quadruple precision. The method is used to study resonance and its effect on…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-11 Jon Wilkening , Jia Yu
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