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We study traveling wave solutions of an equation for surface waves of moderate amplitude arising as a shallow water approximation of the Euler equations for inviscid, incompressible and homogenous fluids. We obtain solitary waves of…

Classical Analysis and ODEs · Mathematics 2013-12-06 Armengol Gasull , Anna Geyer

We determine the stability and instability of a sufficiently small and periodic traveling wave to long wavelength perturbations, for a nonlinear dispersive equation which extends a Camassa-Holm equation to include all the dispersion of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2017-03-01 Vera Mikyoung Hur , Ashish K. Pandey

A fluid system bounded by a flat bottom and a flat surface with an internal wave and depth-dependent current is considered. The Hamiltonian of the system is presented and the dynamics of the system are discussed. A long-wave regime is then…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2017-10-25 Alan Compelli

This paper presents a new numerical model based on the highly nonlinear potential flow theory for simulating the propagation of water waves in variable depth. A new set of equations for estimating the surface vertical velocity is derived…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-12-02 Jinghua Wang

We describe the physical hypotheses underlying the derivation of an approximate model of water waves. For unidirectional surface shallow water waves moving over an irrotational flow as well as over a non-zero vorticity flow, we derive the…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2007-11-30 Delia Ionescu-Kruse

Using Levi-Civita's theory of ideal fluids, we derive the complex Korteweg-de Vries (KdV) equation, describing the complex velocity of a shallow fluid up to first order. We use perturbation theory, and the long wave, slowly varying velocity…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-03-01 Matthew Crabb , Nail Akhmediev

We review here the derivation of many of the most important models that appear in the literature (mainly in coastal oceanography) for the description of waves in shallow water. We show that these models can be obtained using various…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2020-04-22 David Lannes

We prove wave breaking --- bounded solutions with unbounded derivatives --- in the nonlinear nonlocal equation which combines the dispersion relation of water waves and a nonlinearity of the shallow water equations, provided that the slope…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2017-07-10 Vera Mikyoung Hur

We consider several different bidirectional Whitham equations that have recently appeared in the literature. Each of these models combine the full two-way dispersion relation from the incompressible Euler equations with a canonical shallow…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2018-04-11 Kyle M. Claassen , Mathew A. Johnson

We study the Whitham equations for the defocusing complex modified KdV (mKdV) equation. These Whitham equations are quasilinear hyperbolic equations and they describe the averaged dynamics of the rapid oscillations which appear in the…

Exactly Solvable and Integrable Systems · Physics 2007-10-18 Yuji Kodama , V. U. Pierce , Fei-Ran Tian

This paper is concerned with the detailed behaviour of roll-waves undergoing a low-frequency perturbation. We rst derive the so-called Whitham's averaged modulation equations and relate the well-posedness of this set of equations to the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2010-11-11 Pascal Noble , Luis Miguel Rodrigues

There is growing physical and mathematical interest in the hydrodynamics of dissipationless/dispersive media. Since G.~B.~Whitham's seminal publication fifty years ago that ushered in the mathematical study of dispersive hydrodynamics,…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2016-08-02 G. A. El , M. A. Hoefer

We use a Hamiltonian normal form approach to study the dynamics of the water wave problem in the small amplitude long wave regime (KdV regime). If $\mu$ is the small parameter corresponding to the inverse of the wave length, we show that…

Mathematical Physics · Physics 2020-03-09 Dario Bambusi

This paper considers steady surface waves `riding' a Beltrami flow (a three-dimensional flow with parallel velocity and vorticity fields). It is demonstrated that the hydrodynamic problem can be formulated as two equations for two scalar…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2021-03-17 Mark D. Groves , J. Horn

By a bifurcation argument we prove that the capillary-gravity Whitham equation features asymmetrical periodic travelling wave solution of arbitrarily small amplitude. Such waves exist only in the weak surface tension regime…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-01-23 Ola Mæhlen , Douglas Svensson Seth

The spatial Dysthe equations describe the envelope evolution of the free-surface and potential of gravity waves in deep waters. Their Hamiltonian structure and new invariants are unveiled by means of a gauge transformation to a new…

Classical Physics · Physics 2020-02-20 Francesco Fedele , Denys Dutykh

The viscously dominated, low Reynolds' number dynamics of multi-phase, compacting media can lead to nonlinear, dissipationless/dispersive behavior when viewed appropriately. In these systems, nonlinear self-steepening competes with wave…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2014-01-31 Nicholas K. Lowman , Mark A. Hoefer

Equations relating the pressure at a horizontal seabed, the free-surface profile and the surface-pressure are derived for two-dimensional irrotational steady water waves with arbitrary pressure at the free surface. Special cases include…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-11-01 Didier Clamond , Joris Labarbe

A two-dimensional water wave system is examined consisting of two discrete incompressible fluid domains separated by a free common interface. In a geophysical context this is a model of an internal wave, formed at a pycnocline or…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2018-11-09 Alan Compelli , Rossen Ivanov

In this paper, we study the nonlinear dispersive waves including the rarefaction and dispersive shock waves in the discrete modified KdV equation through the numerical simulations of the dispersive Riemann problems. In particular, we…

Pattern Formation and Solitons · Physics 2026-04-06 Su Yang