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Nonlinear wave interactions affect the evolution of steep wave groups, their breaking and the associated kinematic field. Laboratory experiments are performed to investigate the effect of the underlying focussing mechanism on the shape of…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2018-03-05 Alberto Alberello , Amin Chabchoub , Jason Monty , Filippo Nelli , Jung Lee , John Elsnab , Alessandro Toffoli

Wave breaking is a critical process in the upper ocean: an energy sink for the surface wave field and a source for turbulence in the ocean surface boundary layer. We apply a novel multi-layer numerical solver resolving upper-ocean dynamics…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-10-13 Jiarong Wu , Stéphane Popinet , Bertrand Chapron , J. Thomas Farrar , Luc Deike

The search for solutions to the theory of weakly non-linear internal gravity wave turbulence is an active research topic. It is notably stimulated by the fact that this regime could drive fine-scale ocean dynamics for which the…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-09-01 Nicolas Lanchon , Samuel Boury , Pierre-Philippe Cortet

We study at the laboratory scale the rupture of thin floating sheets made of a brittle material under a wave-induced mechanical forcing. We show that the rupture occurs where the curvature is maximum and the break-up threshold strongly…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-12-10 Baptiste Auvity , Laurent Duchemin , Antonin Eddi , Stéphane Perrard

The coupling between wind-waves and atmospheric surface layer turbulence sets surface drag. This coupling is however usually represented through a roughness length. Originally suggested on purely dimensional grounds, this roughness length…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-03-12 Alex Ayet , Bertrand Chapron , Peter Sutherland , Gabriel G. Katul

The water impact of an inclined flat plate and at high horizontal velocity is experimentally investigated with focus on the fluid-structure interaction aspects. Several test conditions have been examined by varying the vertical to…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2021-05-17 Emanuele Spinosa , Alessandro Iafrati

Laboratory wave basin measurements of the surge, heave and pitch of a floating plastic disk caused by regular incident waves are presented. The measurements are used to validate two theoretical models: one based on slope-sliding theory and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-02-17 Lucas Yiew , Luke Bennetts , Michael Meylan , Ben French , Giles Thomas

A plethora of studies in the past decade describe tsunami hazards and study their evolution from the source to the target coastline, but mainly focus on coastal inundation and maximum runup. Nonetheless, anecdotal reports from eyewitnesses,…

Geophysics · Physics 2016-11-15 Roberto Marivela , Robert Weiss , Costas Synolakis

Wave steepness is a key geometric variable for describing breaking occurrence and its consequences, including energy dissipation and air entrainment. Using three laboratory campaigns under varying spectral conditions and co-flowing wind…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2026-05-29 Rui Cao , Enrique M. Padilla , Xu Chen , Adrian H. Callaghan

This study aims to investigate whether fatigue damage induced by bottom wave slamming can be a failure mode important to consider when sizing a marine structural element. The body exposed to wave impacts is assumed to have a shape and…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-12-15 Romain Hascoët , Nicolas Jacques

Cartesian-grid methods in combination with immersed-body and volume-of-fluid methods are ideally suited for simulating breaking waves around ships. A surface panelization of the ship hull is used as input to impose body-boundary conditions…

The impact of a turbulent flow on wind-driven oceanic near-inertial waves is examined using a linearised shallow-water model of the mixed layer. Modelling the flow as a homogeneous and stationary random process with spatial scales…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2016-07-20 Eric Danioux , Jacques Vanneste

With the increasing spans and complex deck shapes, aerodynamic nonlinearity becomes a crucial concern in the design of long-span bridges. This paper investigates the nonlinear interaction between the gust-induced and motion-induced forces…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2022-08-24 Samuel Tesfaye , Igor Kavrakov , Guido Morgenthal

The CO2 gas transfer velocity (KCO2) at air-water interface in a wind-wave flume was estimated at the circumstance of wave breaking. Three types of dynamic processes in the flume were created: monochromatic waves generated by wavemaker,…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2021-11-24 Shuo Li , Alexander V. Babanin , Fangli Qiao , Dejun Dai , Shumin Jiang , Changlong Guan

When a blunt body impacts an air-water interface, large hydrodynamic forces often arise, a phenomenon many of us have unfortunately experienced in a failed dive or "belly flop." Beyond assessing risk to biological divers, an understanding…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-05-15 John T. Antolik , Jesse L. Belden , Nathan B. Speirs , Daniel M. Harris

The standing surface waves in a rectangular vertically oscillating vessel filled with water (Faraday waves) in the presence of a floating elastic sheet are studied experimentally and theoretically. The threshold amplitude of the instability…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-07-11 Vahideh Sardari , Leila Bahmani , Maniya Maleki

We investigate the feasibility and accuracy of a machine learning model to predict the dynamics of a gas pocket that is formed when a breaking wave impacts on a solid wall. The proposed ML model is based on the convolutional long short-term…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-01-09 Rodrigo Ezeta , Bulent Düz

Microdrop impact and spreading phenomena are explored as an interface formation process using a recently developed computational framework. The accuracy of the results obtained from this framework for the simulation of high deformation…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-04 J. E. Sprittles , Y. D. Shikhmurzaev

An experimental study of the dynamics and droplet production in three mechanically generated plunging breaking waves is presented in this two-part paper. In the present paper (Part 1), the dynamics of the three breakers are studied through…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2023-08-09 Martin A. Erinin , Xinan Liu , Sophie D. Wang , James H. Duncan

We study the propagation of surface waves on a current in the presence of an electromagnetic field. A horizontal (vertical) field strengthens (weakens) the counter-current which blocks the waves. We compute the phase space diagrams…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2010-10-12 Germain Rousseaux , Philippe Maïssa