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In this work we discuss an approximate model for the propagation of deep irrotational water waves, specifically the model obtained by keeping only quadratic nonlinearities in the water waves system under the Zakharov/Craig-Sulem…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-01-06 Vincent Duchêne , Benjamin Melinand

Rogue waves are extreme ocean events characterized by the sudden formation of anomalously large crests, and remain an important subject of investigation in oceanography and mathematics. A central problem is to quantify the probability of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2026-03-31 Massimiliano Berti , Ricardo Grande , Alberto Maspero , Gigliola Staffilani

We study theoretically the capillary-gravity waves created at the water-air interface by an external surface pressure distribution symmetrical about a point and moving at constant velocity along a linear trajectory. Within the framework of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2012-12-07 Michael Benzaquen , Frédéric Chevy , Elie Raphaël

In this work we study the generation of water waves by an underwater sliding mass. The wave dynamics are assumed to fell into the shallow water regime. However, the characteristic wavelength of the free surface motion is generally smaller…

Geophysics · Physics 2020-02-20 Denys Dutykh , Dimitrios Mitsotakis , Sonya Beysel , Nina Shokina

We report experimental observations of traveling waves in a pure fluid with a free surface situated in a long container submitted to a horizontal temperature gradient perpendicular to its large extension. Above a critical value of the…

Condensed Matter · Physics 2007-05-23 F. Daviaud , J. M. Vince

Deep ocean acoustics, in the absence of shipping and wildlife, is driven by surface processes. Best understood is the signal generated by non-linear surface wave interactions, the Longuet-Higgins mechanism, which dominates from 0.1 to 10…

Atmospheric and Oceanic Physics · Physics 2017-03-08 Zachary Guralnik , William Farrell , John Bourdelais , Xavier Zabalgogeazcoa

The resonance mechanism in the initial stage of wind-wave generation proposed by Phillips (J. Fluid Mech., vol. 2, 1957, 417$\unicode{x2013}$445) is a foundation of wind-wave generation theory, but a precise theoretical quantification of…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2025-03-12 Tianyi Li , Lian Shen

We prove a weighted a priori energy estimate for the two dimensional water-waves problem with contact points in the absence of gravity and surface tension. When the surface graph function and its time derivative have some decay near the…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2024-02-01 Mei Ming

In certain models of conformal gravity, the propagation of gravitational waves is governed by a fourth order scalar partial differential equation. We study the initial value problem for a generalization of this equation, and derive a…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2020-04-08 Sanjeev S. Seahra

The process of breaking in surface gravity waves can be characterized by two distinct stages. Breaking onset, defined as the first visible surface manifestation of breaking, is preceded by breaking inception, which is characterized by the…

We consider the gravity-capillary water waves problem in a domain $\Omega_t \subset \mathbb{T} \times \mathbb{R}$ with substantial geometric features. Namely, we consider a variable bottom, smooth obstacles in the flow and a constant…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2022-03-31 Gary Moon

The gravity water waves equations describe the evolution of the surface of an incompressible, irrotational fluid in the presence of gravity. The classical regularity threshold for the well-posedness of this system requires initial velocity…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2018-11-27 Albert Ai

The formulation of a canonical deep-water breaking wave problem is introduced, and the results of a set of three-dimensional numerical simulations for deep-water breaking waves are presented. In this paper fully nonlinear progressive waves…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2014-10-08 Kyle A. Brucker , Thomas T. O'Shea , Douglas G. Dommermuth , Paul Adams

We investigate the potential and limitations of the wave generation by disturbances moving at the bottom. More precisely, we assume that the wavemaker is composed of an underwater object of a given shape which can be displaced according to…

Classical Physics · Physics 2019-12-16 Hayk Nersisyan , Denys Dutykh , Enrique Zuazua

We present the derivation of generic equations describing the long gravity waves in incompressible fluid with decaying effect. We show that in this theory the only restriction to the surface deviation is connected with the stability…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2024-11-26 Vladimir I. Kruglov

We present a comprehensive theory for linear gravity-driven ship waves in the presence of a shear current with uniform vorticity, including the effects of finite water depth. The wave resistance in the presence of shear current is…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2016-04-25 Yan Li , Simen Å. Ellingsen

Our goal in this paper is to initiate the rigorous investigation of wave turbulence and derivation of wave kinetic equations (WKE) for water waves models. This problem has received intense attention in recent years in the context of…

Analysis of PDEs · Mathematics 2025-04-22 Yu Deng , Alexandru D. Ionescu , Fabio Pusateri

Triad resonances for gravity waves propagating in opposite direction with respect to uniform current are introduced. They are produced by multivalued and anisotropic dispersion and occur even in deep water. In contrast, existing literature…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2020-07-15 David Kouskoulas , Yaron Toledo

Based on the relationship between proper distance and coordinate distance, the geometrical phenomenon caused by the passing gravitational waves can not be observed locally. The electromagnetic wave equations in the background gravitational…

General Relativity and Quantum Cosmology · Physics 2018-11-13 Wenyu Wang , Yang Xu

Linear water wave theory suggests that wave patterns caused by a steadily moving disturbance are contained within a wedge whose half-angle depends on the depth-based Froude number $F_H$. For the problem of flow past an axisymmetric pressure…

Fluid Dynamics · Physics 2015-06-16 Ravindra Pethiyagoda , Scott W. McCue , Timothy J. Moroney